BIRTHDAY WEEK PART 2
The Dukes Hotel does all it says on the tin ..Hot tub’s are us and flowers from Joe and Susanne Sharman making our room smell less of our sweaty feet being a lily and rose arrangement..
Saturday 4th May Star Wars Day ..
May the Forth be with you ..
The Cooks Birthday and Their Wedding anniversary..The Driver won’t forget as they married on The Cooks 50th Star Wars day ..A party for the 50th birthday had been organised at The sailing club for a couple of hundred people ..Let’s shock em they said ..no one knew but Daniel Emma and Joe .. Imagine the uproar when The Driver in his birthday speech said raise a glass to Mrs Sharman .. His Dad was never right with them after that secret was kept from him
A garden party lunch at Emma’s home in Victoria with a cake with 80 candles ..presents of gin ..wine.. a party in a box ..and a print The Cook has lusted over for months
Photo of print above
Seemingly Rachel rang Daniel to say The Cook was over the moon about some prints seen on t’internet ..USA based AI artist named Jonas Peterson releases work 4 times a year .. It was said a whip round of family and friends to get enough money to purchase a print for The Cook .. She was delighted with their choice and will be framed and hung in a suitable place at home
Back to our Hotel for what is known as a disco nap although alcohol was imbibed in small quantities..One glass of Prosecco which if watered down with peach juice can be enjoyable and usually make three decent cocktails
Next … 6-30pm Drinks in the square Main Street Victoria
Ruby wasn’t drinking beer just fruit tea and John .. well .. He was chilled and borrowed Ruby’s jacket She borrowed her fathers
7-30pm Food and a special supper at one of Emma’s favourite restaurants A private dining room was set aside for the party .. Fabulous food
The best restaurants in Victoria
Maldonando
Hidden away in the historic centre of Rabat, Gozo is Maldonado; a charming restaurant that offers a Mediterranean dining experience with a creative flair.
Maldonado’s menu changes seasonally, ensuring that all dishes are crafted with only the finest locally sourced ingredients. Some current customer favourites include the Lampuki Gravalax, the Sundried Tomato & Mascarpone Agnolotti, and the Stuffed Chicken Breast.
If you’re celebrating any milestone events or organising an evening with your colleagues, a private room is also available.This was us !!
(Blurb from NOW GOZO )
On our return to the hotel it was hot tub time again .. just lovely at night
More about 5th May later ..
BIRTHDAY🎂 WEEK PART 1
Tuesday 30th April .. A meet up at The Crab Shack with Gozo Family only to find the Ipswich side of the family made it to the party …Joe Sharman is The Driver’s look alike ..
Wednesday 1st May….The Driver rented a car for the arrival of the Barrowford Family from UK ..
Thursday 2nd May….Airport pick up..Very tired Ruby after a too early flight but an ice cream at our restaurant of choice “Coogi’s” perked her up for a while ..Sadly we missed the roof garden ..Full to busting ..but all was well and fab in the lower area ..
A visit to Mdina or The Silent city is a must when visiting Malta ..A stop off before travelling north to the Gozo ferry..The historical city featured in Game of Thrones series as backdrop for many scenes. Dropped off UK bunch at The Dukes Boutique Hotel
Friday 3rd May ..AM …Coffee in St George’s Sq..with Emma and UK family ..and a walk up to the Citadel for the views and lunch at Cafe San Martino ..very windy and but food was fabulous .. local produce even his Aunties cheese as an extra plate on the house ..
Friday 3rd May …PM …The Driver and The Cook moved into The Dukes Boutique Hotel in Victoria the capital of Gozo leaving poor Harry Hymer all alone at his fav beach …Just gorgeous for a break from travelling with hot tub time on our balcony ..chocs and welcome card ..What a treat❤️
BIRTHDAY WEEK PART 2 SOON ….
GOZO
The rain doesn’t last long here in the Maltese islands.. Just blows through .. A sunny if not chilly wind for our crossing.. Hundreds of day trippers boarding .. mostly as foot passengers..
Only a twenty minute crossing .. We didn’t even bother to go on deck as we were lodged between very large artic lorry and the ferry wall and it was too much bother to scramble over cars and up steps .. We have done it all before anyway ..
A quick journey to Emma’s flat to do our washing .. Emma is The Drivers daughter and The Cooks step daughter who has lived here on Gozo for 20 years ..
Narrow streets and nowhere to park Harry Hymer.. We just dumped him .. The lady of the house next door pipped her horn for us to come out and shift him and allowed us to park a little further down her property which incidentally is a massive villa with pool ..
Washing done and socialising done with our Grandsons who we haven’t seen for 5 years in person ..Only on FaceTime
The Driver with Emma’s advice found us a sleepy spot down at the salt pans in a tiny bay called XWEJNI ..Ok try pronouncing that one ..it sounds like swengy… but it quiet and no one has bothered us ..
Now settled and scooter is out for The Drivers chores up in Victoria the capital of Gozo.. A new SIM card for the spare phone purchased .. and booking a hire car for an airport pick up of the other side of the family .. They are coming over for their first visit to Gozo and to celebrate The Cook birthday on Star Wars day ..May the forth .. get it ???
So here we are overlooking the clear turquoise sea and the salt pans which seemingly date back to the Romans ..
After a stroll purchased our salt to take home
https://www.visitgozo.com/blog/the-saltpans-of-xwejni/
ITS RAINING !
A night at another known place from five years ago ..A very nice harbour .. quiet after all the Sunday sunset watches had gone home .. it said No Parking but this is Sicily .. So we parked ..
On our return to Pazzarllo The Driver heard a tapping .. The tyre !! A massive bolt .. Found a tyre place within 10 minutes.. All fixed for the grand price of €10
A near full moon for our last night on the best of beach parking in Sicily .. and a colourful dawn for our crossing to Malta at 8am .. up and at it at 6am as the ferry terminal is just 6 minutes for the beach making it easy .. A calm crossing after yesterday’s cancelled ferries due to high wind ..
A nice view of the harbour as we sailed into Valletta
Now it pouring down as we park up at a known sleepy spot in Mellieha Bay ..
It took forever to get here with diversion on the known route taking us over hill and dale on NARROW country roads and a couple of small car crashings .. Wet roads are lethal here after the heat .. police sorted it out… but as the roads were so narrow it was difficult for the on coming traffic to get through .. All very good natured .. No cross words
“LA CIALOMA “
A little stroll around the town by the sea to book lunch at one of our favourite restaurant La Cialoma A find back in 2016 ..
https://www.tavernalacialoma.it/
A treat hopefully ?… Michelin awarded restaurant.. The exterior attracting many photographers with families posing in the square .
A very windy day which meant eating in the square was out .. An outdoor sea view terrace at the rear was our dining room ..We didn’t know it existed.. Still windy with gale force gusts but the lace table clothes managed to stay on the tables ..
It took a while to make our choice of food and fortunately we were early diners and still had a choice of all ..unlike late comers .. Lots of dishes crossed off by 3pm..
The Cook was looking forward to having Vongoli again but not on the menu .. most of the tables filled up ..a few couples came .. looked at the prices ..and left ..
DONT look at the price of the wine ..Ouch ..but after all it is our 30th wedding anniversary in May ..Treats are allowed !
One complaint the service wasn’t up to scratch .. No desert menu offered .. we were forgotten!!!! No tip ….
All in all interesting fare but not as good as the last treat in Castiglioni Della Pescie on the Tuscan coast ..
Inside is a very tiny dining room with some rather nice paintings on the walls with a view of the owner in her domain The Kitchen ..
It’s is so windy all the ferry crossing to Malta were cancelled and we were blown back to Harry Hymer ..A Geletto as desert was sourced from another tiny cafe on our short walk to the coastal carpark €8 per night ..
ONE WAY STREETS!
If you miss a turning on the Sat nav it tends to go pear shaped .. today we missed three .. read on 🤦♀️
Yet another scary drive .. Went off from our Palazzo sleepy spot to find a dump ( a dump is to release our washing up/ shower water which is held in a tank under the van and gets very smelly in hot weather ) We went down the wrong lane .. cannot turn round ..too narrow and had to reverse into main road traffic.. with The Cook directing a belligerent shouty driver out onto the main road .. Sicilian drivers even though bonkers are very accommodating.. The traffic stopped and Harry Hymer back on to the road .. The cook then walked from the wrong turn to the campsite to dump .. but it was closed for lunch till 4pm .. how stupid ..
Amazingly lovely coast road and lakes with flamingos feasting ..
Arrived in our chosen village after a drive along the coast road .. sadly again rubbish dumped everywhere
Another error in judgement by Harry’s crew .. Don’t drive past barriers on to the sea front .. We should have gone around the village not through the middle ..very narrow .. Shops with produce on the road .. Families walking in the road .. much more commercial than our last trip here .. To get to the parking narrow narrow streets which unfortunately were blocked by cars and vans .. scaffolding ..The Cook wandered off .. finding a van driver who very kindly moved and off we went only to find a one way street going the wrong way .. The cook walk in front of the van to warn any approaching traffic ( she does this so often she said she needs a red flag to wave) all was well and into the carpark .. We really should check our routes better ..
PERFUMED GARDENS
A little Lidl shop and a drive through plantations of orange trees .. The smell of a south European market garden ..Our favourite perfume ever .. Orange blossoms!
Found our target .. A campsite and restaurant..
coords(37.3351, 13.3935)
It’s just ok.. if you know what I mean? .. The leccy keeps cutting out and why do you go to a campsite if it’s not for leccy .. No WiFi either ..any way pizza for supper not the restaurant but Lidl !
A stroll into the town .. turned cloudy .. one or two cafes open .. beach and home tourists .. a few African workers wandering around on their day off ..
Nothing to write home about.. and we will move east tomorrow… to where ? Your guess is a good as mine ! Morning temperature 30C now 23C with cloud ⛅️
A brisk walk !
Well that’s a first or is it second .Day two of The Cooks fitness regime ..How long will this last ?
Another striding out walk after last night supper of Chipotle cauliflower steak cooked in lardon juice with a cauliflower cheese and new pototoes .. and a little spitting on our sunset
A little too hot as we are late for our walk and the sun is around 20C without a breeze at 11am .. Walked on the beach / stones and back on the old railway line now a path ..
Flora and even fauna (Sheep).. The shepherd .. a very old chap sitting in the shade watching his herd ..
Bees ..crickets geckos and the sound of birds and surf .. Multiple patches of wild flowers
A couple more off grid travellers down the beach ..
As alway once you see one there are bound to be others turning up ..we were alone and now we are 6 on a couple of miles of shore .. A paddle board chap turned up .. we’ve decided not to move as yet it’s so nice here ..
BEACH LIFE!
What a find ..White pebbles beach.. Zero traffic.. Sea view .. only sound are the waves ..Sunset.. Dark sky Stary night .. Pasta and mushroom sauce for supper .. and a wake up at 7am ..Blue sky with wispy clouds ..
A walk The Cook said ..
After more than four months of inactivity and weight gain due to daily travelling and then sitting with a large G&T to recover from the stress of tiny narrow streets inadvertently taken in over trafficked townships The Cook has decided we walk briskly .. on the flat .. no more excruciating hill climbs to Tuscan villages . Just a brisk beach walk ..Daily .. How long will this last .. I throw the question to the House !!!
OVER HILL AND DALE !
A day of driving .. narrow streets .. Masala a No No .. no parking and The Cook didn’t want to go after her last experience in Dog Sh&t alley .. Lovely town but dog dodo everywhere of which The Cook got a shoe full last time here ..A wander through the agricultural landscape
Vines as far as the eye could see.. Olive groves and Artichoke fields .. Over hill and dale and zero traffic on the narrow back roads ..Some of which sent The Cook into very sweary mode ..
Lunch on one headland with a gale force wind and too exposed for a sleep over ..
Another stop at a marina with NO CAMPER signs .. a very wet sandy dog came visiting ..I bet she is in trouble at home .. We didn’t want to stay anyway ..
Now after another search in Park4 notes app we found one of the best off the beaten track sleepy spots .. we may stay here for days
(37.54406 12.98479) Bertolino Beach
TRAPANI ? or not ..
A drive to Trapani via the beach at SanVito Lo capo after an uneventful over night at the light house and Cat Hotel with morning feeding and visiting kitkats to Harry Hymer
More crazy driver and learner fire engine drivers !!
Coords for Lighthouse free sleepy spot (38.187869 12.733278)
Trapani was full .. Home tourist by the look of it with no where for Harry Hymer to park up ..
The Driver said for The Cook to find another spot and she did.
Coords for Misiliscemi (37.94710 12.48924)
A drive out of Trapani via the salt pans ..The Cook yells “Been here before I recognise the windmill “
A damp trip here in we think 2016 .. A campsite with a washing machine but no tumble dryer .. memories of trying to dry washing with fan heaters ..
Another drive down roads The Cook says No to .. and found our little sleepy spot beach here in Misiliscemi ..
CAT HOTEL
What a difference 8 years makes .. The Cook threw a Tantram about MWay driving and not going down tiny roads into tiny villages .. 2016 this is what was written
https://travelswithhetty.wordpress.com/2016/03/11/tantrams/
Now The Cook says we are not going down that track /tiny road .. Keep to the highway and here we are in one piece at the most northern point of Sicily ..Faro Di Capo San Vito ..The light house ..There is a parking place over looking the sea about 1 k south but The Cook has bought snacks for the cats who live at The Lighthouse .. She heard about The Kat Hotel from a fellow campervaner ..The little cat village services around 12 kittikats ..see video below..
The sea is so blue with a cooling breeze.. A walk on the shore .. Full of flora and fauna (3cows)
TUSCANY
Accidental Tourism..or are we lost ???
The road out of Fattoria La Vialla isn’t a road one would travel by choice .. The Cook has been known to scream and a wrong turning was taken into the tiniest of villages a mile or so out of La Vialla .. The Cook turned her talents to the Victorian person who lead cars up a road on foot waving a white flag .. well not so intense but she walked in front of Harry making sure the tiny village corners were not gonna cause a problem.. all was well and on reaching the “main“ road headed off to what our Sat Nav Road assured us would be toll roads to the port of Civitavecchia (spelling) NOT as chance .. but we have has a delightful day over hill and dale of the Tuscan country side .. not seeing anything remotely like a toll road or even a main road .. now holed up in another village with a Sosta with free leccy and parking ..coords (42.6306531, 11.8284817)
Fattoria La Vialla
A wonderful outing for lunch at La Vialla ..
Our third time here .. Drinks on the terrace.. nibbles .. and indoors for lunch with a wood burning fire in the inglenook fireplace .. Before we have eaten on the terrace in the sun but management seem to think it cool ..not for us Brits .. it’s like a summers day ..
The food and the company of Tom and Pritti was a delight ..
Fortunately we were moved out before drunkeness pervaded our sensibilities.. and all for €27 per person ..
What a treat yet again …
Easter Sunday 2024
After the most exciting game of football Burnley FC have played this season .. an outing was proposed ..a special lunch OUT OUT ! An Easter Sunday outing and to justify an expensive restaurant we have decided to start our 30th Wedding anniversary celebration early .. a month early .. our restaurant of choice was full .. after looking at and translating the menu at our second choice restaurant into English before entering thought this one ok .. a bit expensive for The Drivers taste .. What a treat .. The food fabulous .. people watching .. weird and wonderful fashion choices.. our gorgeous server and the nicest Pinot Gigot ever ..A dog friendly restaurant and who gets served first .. yes the 🐕 is given a bowl and water .. Back to Harry and a full carpark .. Italy on Holiday
CASTIGLIONE DELLA PESCAIA
What an unexpected treat we’ve hit on here .. Did not expect such a delightful village by the sea .. Free Parking (42.76629 10.8684) around a km’s walk on the rather splendid prom into town ..Lots of closed or getting ready to open beach cafes .. Yacht harbour for The Driver to ogle .. yachts straining their moorings in the very strong near gale force wind ..
A stroll through the little town of posh shops and restaurants ..all closed as Easter doesn’t start until Friday and now the Up and Up ..This village is straight UP ..not a gradual slope but straight UP ..The Driver thinks the flagged and cobbled narrow road was a 25 % incline .. I would call it the steepest walk ever even steeper than the road from The Dali Lama’s pad in McCloud Gange in India and that was lung popping steep ..
The Cook made it to the top for the wonderful view and a treat of a Galeto when she got back down again
Our plan is to stay here during the Italian holiday as the rest of Tuscany will be full to busting .. on arrival here on Thursday there were 4 vans .. now Easter Saturday a couple of dozen have been in and out .. The ferry from Civitavecchia to Sicily is booked for Friday next .. Our thinking is Montipulicano may be empty again by Tuesday for a visit .. or Wednesday giving enough time to get to the ferry terminal ..
More later and a hope The Cook won’t have to do a week’s worth of blogging and she can get back to cooking ..
VOLTERRA
PIOVE ..Italian for ITS RAINING
Our drive through the Tuscan hills was just amazing .. Like an holiday advert for Tuscany .. Green with a dash of yellow on the rolling hills .. plain tree paths up to grand villas .. It couldn’t have been any more perfect a drive ..
On arrival a parking place had to be found . A mistaken turning and a reverse into the main road .. Done with aplomb as The Cook stood out in traffic .. Fortunately a driver stopped for us to reverse out ..We thought perhaps he had a motor home and had been in the same situation.. Many thnx and apologies for holding up traffic we wandered into the old railway station (gone now) area .. Buses parked up .. Payment machines out of commission.. What to do .. The Cook said go left and voila an area by the Air Ambulance landing pad .. and yes we did see a helicopter land to take someone away .. Parked up .. Now to try to pay .. Perhaps it was free at this time of year but The Driver found the info on a sign ..Take photo machine …Go to google translate.. info got and a payment by phone app made .. phew .. €11 for the next day and night .. not bad ..
A late arrival and supper .. A walk into Volterra in the morning and then it rained .. not just rain but torrential.. all night
In the morning couldn’t see the buses 100yds away as the cloud had covered us and Volterra.. A walk into the town of Vampires made famous on screen by Twilight the vampire movie..scenes shot here and in Montipulciano another hill top town worth a visit .. personally I think it’s nicer than Volterra..
It’s a grey dank walk in Volterra .. Not as we saw the town last time we were here .. but atmospheric The Cook has a fascination for dark allies and arches .. She certainly got her fair share …see her photos
So where next .. The Driver found a carpark near a beach near Bibbona and it poured and poured .. A look at weather map and tomorrow we go south to Castiglioni della Piscari as even though it’s blowing a gale there’s zero rain forecast
Coordinates for overnight parking below
We parked very near here for one night many years back on the worst camp site ever ..see the blog below
SAN MINIATO
The Driver seems to have taken over as tour operator for this section of our adventures and has found some Tuscan villages off the tourist trail .. San Miniato being one .. Parking was a little confusing but an Italian lady waving her hand in the air shouting ..FREE FREE !! Harry parked up and off we toddled to the tiny village and guess what more Up and Up .. The Cook is getting good at it and when the Driver says any further she answer yes let’s go to the top although there was an incentive.. Music .. 1940’s music could be heard coming from the top most ramparts and The Cook being curious (nosy) couldn’t resist taking a look 👀 It turned out to be a young male juggler with Benny Goodman music playing .. You couldn’t make it up if you tried 🤪😝
On the way back down again The Cook got into trouble for taking a photo of an Ass .. Didn’t see the guy at first who informed the cook she was rude and should ask before taking a photo .. she said she took a photo of the Ass who as an Ass couldn’t give his/her permission and she hadn’t seen him any way..She walked slowly away shaking her head..click here for photos …PHOTOS OF SAN MINIATO INCUDING ASS
Back to Harry “Where next Volterra..let go find vampires “
TUSCANY
A week in Italy and zero blogging sometimes hard with long journeys and then supper to cook ..so here we go again
OFF TO LUCCA
Disembarked the ferry and onto the Toll Road to La Spezia Lidl .. RAIN .. On the turn into Lidl a guy sort of cut us up .. He then came up to Harry and we thought he was going to abuse Harry for driving wrongly ..but No .. Introduced him self.. Carl from Newcastle ..worked here for 15 years .. He also had a campervan and gave us all sort of insights into dos and don’t .. He also pointed the Driver in the right direction for an Iliad sim for the spare phone .. A wet walk for the Driver as The Cook acted as security guard for Harry ..
The Cook hates toll machines as they are either too high or too low ..and stuffing a euro note in is impossible..even had a €20 note blow away once to be collected by a nice Italian a few cars behind.. Now always try to go to a pay area with a man in a booth…
Finding a sleepy spot in Lucca proved difficult .. We went to the first one on park4nights only to find a soccer match was scheduled for Sunday therefore “No parking” .. went off to another.. “Full”.. by this time it was going dark .. we hate not having anywhere to stay when it’s going dark.. A quick browse by The Cook and a free carpark just by the city wall was found on Park4Nights app
Sunday came after a great nights sleep and the weather is still ok ….It’s Palm Sunday and the walled city was rammed with church goers .. All carrying vine branched and a few carried Palm branches ..
Photo reel below lovely Lucca just click it 😎
Another sleep in Lucca and off to an unknown hill top village called San Miniato
More on San Miniato in next blog.
MOROC TO ITALY FERRY!
A good deal?
£720
1. 7m camper van
2. Berths
3. Nights on board
4. Days full board restaurant booked in advance and payed up front
Seems a good deal down from £1120 on offer via AFerry on line website
Working out how much fuel for 2000km
Stress on The Driver
A week or more of campsites @ around €30 per night
Doing the Tanger med Morocco to Genoa Italy in style
Noooooo!!
The Cooks worst night mare is CAFETERIA not restaurant
No Madam your booking is cafeteria
Can we use the restaurant?
No madam your booking is cafeteria
Can we up grade to restaurant ?
No Madam not at this time ..
The Cook is carried spitting and screaming from reception/ info desk ( Well not quite but she was very upset) threatening the poor useless receptionist with a law suit .. The Cooks latest book has this terminology and it slipped off the tongue .. laughingly
Ok ..Our option is Cafeteria
Time 6-0pm to 8-0 pm ..
Now In Morocco for the month of Ramadan the time is GMT and hour back .
Our watches are on Morocco time .. Ha!! The ship is on EU time .. We realised this fact seeing evening prayers being said before ending the fasting by the Muslims on board ..
“”Bit early said The Cook “
It then twigged the time change from the boarding to ships time .. What a rush to The Cafeteria with just 20 minute to secure for our evening meal .. Phew .. All was well the canteen dining area .. just like school dinners .. line up .. slap it on your plate but remember Madam you’re on a limited menu !!!
WTF say The Cook ..we’re full board
Ahhhh Madam you’re only allowed certain items
WTF said The Cook again
Again all was well The Cooks veggie pasta was delicious once one used the microwave to reheat as was The Drivers meat ball with extra sauce as we were the last guests .. not many diners .. wonder if they are all in the very nice looking restaurant ..
MWay Madness
To get anywhere fast the Mway/Toll roads are the way to go.. and reasonably priced €40 for 838 km ..
Keeping your eyes open for ….
Litter pickers .. No coned off areas just wandering the verges keeping the road litter free .. which they do ..
Bus stops .. Intercity bus stops on Mway .. Traveller disembarking and cross central reservation to go to their homes
Sales people … sell you a bag of potatoes Sir as we speed past at 70 mph !!
Fodder collections … Man with donkey and bag collecting grass on verges and embankments
Ladies walking … perhaps to market in next village .. shortest route along MWay emergency lane
Broken down lorry changing tire or generally fixing on inside lane .. no sweat just put a cone behind .. or even a boulder ..no MWay assistance but a fellow lorry driver may stop to help ..
Sheep and goats even cows using embankment for feeding .. all under control by a young lad with a stick
FARMYARD CAMPING
Mohamedia… on our way North Mimosa camping
Like a farmyard .. Cats Hens cocks Guinea fowl and peacocks
RAMADAM
Mohameadia seems to embrace evening prayers at 6pm .. 4 am morning prayers till 5am …6am more morning prayers and on Friday all day prayers .. and evening is for party time Moroc style .. till midnight ..4 hours sleep for two days .. Let’s try a less populated area so off to Asilah where we know the singer has a lovely voice what we didn’t bargain for was the 4am siren .. we think for the astrological dawn which one assumes to start fasting again ..sighs
On Wednesday 20th at 8-30 pm we sail on the ferry from Tanger Med to Genoa in Italy.. arriving on Saturday 24th mini cruise ?? Naa The ferry has seen better days just hope for decent weather ..
TODAY IN MARRAKESH
Stories from the Souk
Tony .. Age 62 ..He is a lone full time traveler living next to Harry Hymer in his very nice van .. His home .. His first trip into central Marrakesh .. Walking the main square of the Medina ..The Jemaa el-Fnaa by name .. Afternoon ..approached by ladies saying Hi .. and offering S&X for €20 .. 200 Dirhams ..Less than £20 ..He stopped to chat .. no haggling but had to refuse as one never knows what could happen in a back street just off the Souk in Marrakesh !! How we laughed ..
Tony’s van !
AN OUTING!
We started off in style.. Shared Taxi ..25mad (€2)each .. good value for a 7km ride .. Dropped off on the main road and just a short walk to Jardin Majorelle ..Tourist central .. No one dressed Morocco appropriate.. Ahh well !!!! Signs for time slots ..we joined 11-30 queue.. A very good system and in we went .. BLUE.. lots of Blue .. Wow fabulous ..Yves Saint Laurent connection ….The garden and villa were rediscovered in the 1980s, by fashion designers, Yves Saint-Laurent and Pierre Bergé who set about restoring it and saving it.[6]The pair owned the villa until 2008. After Yves Saint Laurent died in 2008 his ashes were scattered in the Majorelle Garden (copied from Wiki )
A lovely afternoon and decided not to spoil it by a 30 minute walk to the Medina in scorching heat .. We had done what The Cook had wanted to do for many years .. and back to Harry by a well negotiated Taxi .. managed to get him down to 125 from 300 ..
Soon to be moving on as our ferry to Italy is now booked .. A look at the weather in the Mediterranean and decided all is well .. none of the storms of late .. It’s a 3 night sailing .. Embarking on Wednesday 20th and land Genoa Italy on Saturday 24th … Cabin Motorhome 2 passengers and full board £780 instead of a 2000km journey by road .. saving The Drivers sanity
Whacky Races !
Driving in Rabat is an experience to say the least .. A miracle Harry wasn’t hit from all sides but the Moroccans seem to be able to sneak into any lane even when there isn’t room ..The Driver was very brave The Cook wasn’t .. eyes closed ..
After looking at the weather we decided a mistake has been made coming so far north ..The Weather ! Rain and gale force winds for days.. GO SOUTH was the cry
Having driven 200 mile and another sand storm arrived at LE RELAIS DE MARRAKESH CAMPING on the outskirts of the city an expensive campsite but not many option’s here
It’s nice with a pool ..bar and restaurant.. Haven’t tried any of em but have done a BIG WASH .. A whole month of washing in one day thanks go to The Driver who is better organised .. All dried on washing lines strung every where on our pitch ..The French next door said they didn’t mind us encroaching on there pitch ..
The Drivers treat .. egg and brown sauce on brown !
Veggie man’s donkey cart serving the campsite with produce !
Very domestic couple of days of cleaning .. the sand get every where and I do mean every where! The use of eye drops is a must .. even with specs on the gritty dust is hurty ..
Next job … Booked the ferry back with the weather taken into consideration.. The best that could be done was 20th March from Tanger med to Genoa in Italy via Barcelona .. Yes we are going to Gozo/Malta via Italy ..Over 2K miles by road .. so the cost on The Driver.. Harry ..The time taken to drive and Fuel there wasn’t any argument and the ferry is booked .. Taking 4 days 3 nights .. full board for £750
Tomorrow we go into Marrakesh to The Yves St Lauren gardens .. more later 👋
A MASSIVE FAIL !
Soda Water
Over the last few months due to the scarcity of soda water for The Cook’s white wine (spritz) I have been making it with my soda stream kit.
Recently she has said it doesn’t taste right. In Melilla at Lidl’s she discovered some 4 litres Soda which was purchased for our onward travels .
Over the last week she has said that the Pinot Grigio seems to have gone off as the wine seemed too sweet and wonders if her taste buds are up the creek !!
Today we opened a bottle of Pinot as the box was empty this was sampled to ascertain the correct quantity of soda , after the soda was added she said it’s now sweeter.
The driver had a glass of the soda as a taste test only to confirm she had bought 4 litres of lemonade. This means the cook has recently been drinking Pinot Shandies ( Wine-dies).
I have now returned to making our own soda again.
FÉS THE FABULOUS
The Cook’s view on stuff..
The two faces of Morocco …..
Petite taxi charge 10 mad ..for a little more than a mile J accidently gave the driver two 20’ s …one 20 note returned and 10 change .. but our clothes pegs on the ladder at the rear didn’t fair so well .. all gone in the morning ..
A camping site found .. Expensive at 125 Mad per night but not for us .. one night is enough with dogs fightings.. not wild dogs but camper van dogs ..Underfoot wet with orange mud .. under trees cold ..
After the roof light shop explained in the last posting eloquently by the Driver .. A search for a carpark in Fez itself .. The campsite just exited was 12 km out in the sticks .. To get in and out to the city was a total of 300 mads =€30 by taxi ..
We do like to be in amongst a city .. not a tourist camp .. Asking around on Facebook friends in Morocco ..two place near the walls of Fez were found .. one too tight ..too crowded to be viable .. The next one was a mistake not the one we were after .. missed this entrance but not to worry a boy on a scooter chased us down at a cul de sac entrance arch to the souk .. “Turn round Sir”.. and within 50 mt a place was found for Harry .. as the day continued we were blocked in from all sides by locals but fortunately we didn’t want to go any where driving .By 9pm only few cars left ..
Great night’s sleep with the morning call to prayer seemingly very quiet .. why we wondered with so many mosques in Fez ??? Answer .. never found out ..
Now Friday and the Muslim holy day Jumu’ah
After midday prayers Fez is closed so an up early and away ..into the souk / Medina .. Alley ways so narrow donkeys collect household rubbish in panniers to take to the outer walls and a skip … this tickled the cook ..
Just walking .. all down hill..looking and wondering how people live here .. near medieval.. can’t imagine it raining .. with water running .. dark alleyways off the main route even darker and narrower.. Not ventured down by us .. A bit scary
A few boys wanted to be our guide but managed to shake em off .. not hassled ..
Knowing from google maps where the world famous tannery’s are.. headed down the river .. Homeless beggars sleeping on the concrete shelf above the river ..
Walking out into the sunshine and behind the Tannery a guy capture us to go look .. “ok” we say “How much “. ? “As you like Sir” says Looky looky man .. Up and up and up into his shop block which had a balcony for viewing the tannery .. Very interest chat about pigeon poo ..a hair removing start to the many processes to get the leather to wearable quality.. cost of looky looky 40mad .. and he was very happy with it .. as were we ..
Coffee procured in a square to people watch .. and generally a good visit into Fez souk ..
Now off again as the rain is on its way
Kenitra is our destination and a 200 km trip on another toll road .. no incidents to report .. Cost 108 Mads =€10.80=£9.26
Nice camping found in Kenitra Plagé
Cost …Pricey @ 125mads =€12-50 =£10-70 with leccy and swimming pool
IT WENT BANG !
Read on ….long blog …….
A quiet sleepy spot up over looking the sea on a farm .. only a transit stop on the way to Melilla
Waltzing down the road to the Spanish enclave .. We couldn’t find the border and after 30 minutes of wandering along the razor wire fence stopped to ask police man who put us on the right road .. found the border crossing and .. passport control …
Army questions at the border .. Then !!!!
“Madam get out and sit in building “..
Harry and The Driver disappeared with an army chap sitting where The Cook should be .. seemingly he has to have an X Ray scan .. not The Driver but Harry Hymer !!!!
The Cook has been waiting for there return for 30 minutes.. with only her passport with her .. No money .. No internet .. and NO book to read ..WTF .. a little scary to say the least ..
All was well Harry n Driver returned .. time taken to cross was nearly 3 hours and off we went to the Spanish border control .. only 15 minutes with them
Pretty easy to find the port where the van was to be parked over night .. Not pretty Zero view unless you like looking at port buildings .. The Driver went off to find a better parking place again leaving The Cook to worry .. as usual .. He is alway gone far too long ..She thinks he has been murdered mugged or fall in the harbour ..
The wind blowing dogs of leads .. and shaking the van .. Not a nice place to park as we couldn’t get head to wind in the parking bays .. He has found another carpark on the other end of the town over looking the Sea
This will do but the wind strength increased as the night went on .. The Cook had an Oodie on with the hood up as a security blanket in bed .. I think we got about three hours sleep ..Cannot sleep being buffeted around .. The Cook gets scared 😱
Not very impressed with this Spanish enclave ..
Had a walk up to the Citadel .. The Driver did the museums with The Cook in tow ..grumbling .. She doesn’t like museums
Another less disturbing sleeps Harry was head to wind so less rocking when a gust hit We were in the company of two more Hymers .. Very old ones (collectors pieces) called Brownies from Belgium
A nice sign out side a school
NO WAITING ! KISS AND GO !!
Left after two night ..
Only 1 1/2 hours to get across the border .. all the border guards chatty and seemingly nice .. No X-ray this time .. sniffer dog and questions ask about .. Guns and Drones .. No we don’t have either
Off to Fez on the Toll Road but the road to connect was extremely bad .. storm force wind ..we heard a bang “WTF”.. stopping at the next services found our bathroom sky light was no more .. gone .. blown away .. some where down the Toll Road ..
Parish Notice
Only €12 for a 256 km drive on a Toll Road
Now looking around Fes to find a replacement plastic for the none existent roof light as its going to rain..
The Driver’s story
When we arrived at the campsite in Fez ( which we didn’t like at all .. Muddy and full of annoying van owners) The Driver did a temporary fix with Gaffer tape ( every one should carry some ) .
The next day we drove to the Moroccan version of B&Q to buy some Perspex clear plastic for a more permanent repair.
They didn’t stock anything similar but on Google maps showed me the street when I could find some ..all the way across Fes .. On arrival it was a whole street of plastic drainage and plumbing stores… leaving The Cook reading I enquired in one store who did not stock it but said the aluminium window street was the place to go. He kindly sent his assistant to take me there about 1/2 km of walking . At the aluminium store they couldn’t help but then took me to a sign makers down the street. After a discussion they agreed to cut me a piece suitable for the task . Total cost 60 Dhm about £6 . As I walked back to Harry I called into each place that had helped to show my goodies and say thank you.
Moroccans have yet again proven to be extremely friendly and a helpful nation .
A FAIL !!!!
What a day !!!!
Speeding ticket .. Not once but twice in 7miles
The Cooks fault .. she isn’t being strict enough with The Driver !
She normally checks the sat nav speed but today she was airily staring around at the country side when we were flashed by an on coming motorist .. This means cops are out .. so .. buzzing over a hill at 79 km in an 80 .. when the 60 sign came up .. fast ..The driver then coasted rather than anchors on to a slower speed .. too late .. The radar gun got Harry before he had coasted to the correct speed ..79 in a 60 woops !!!
Pulled over at the bottom of the hill .. Papers Sir .. Speeding … 150 mad .. £11.84 … Wishing us a good day
The Drivers pocket money is docked for today
Going out of town again the on coming traffic flashed the lights .. and another radar gun .. on a corner this time ..Pulled over “Papers Sir “.. this time we were only 7 km over the limit .. Still 150 mad ..The cop with the radar gun said he was sorry and have a good day !
The Driver pocket money confiscated for tomorrow
The Cook now has a stiff neck looking at the Sat nav ..and The Driver gets annoyed by her diligence to duty .. “ Slow down John “
We are now on a farm in the middle of nowhere with stew and dumplings made from scratch by The Cook with a bottle red wine..
Yummy
Travelling north !
Why are we travelling north you ask ? Away from wall to wall sunshine .. because we need to see more of the country and haven’t been to the Moroccan Mediterranean coast before so that’s where we are heading
Two days on the road a total of 485 km .. some good ..some very bad .. a stop for shopping in Errachidia .. Have you any idea how excited The Cook gets when after three weeks in the desert she sees a supermarket .. what’s on the list besides veg and fruit .. FISH FINGERS .. Yaaaaaaa! I know sad soul .. but sometimes you need more than Tagines ..
On the outskirt of Merzuga we saw 100 at least Renault 4 .. a rally starting in Paris taking children’s bikes and school equipment for the Moroccan kids ..Finishing In Marrakesh..
A run though the ZIZ gorge was rather nice be it a little scary for The Cook being in the suicide seat ( Harry is right hand drive ) and she flinches as the heavy articulated lorry’s come round a blind bend .. there are a lot of blind bends on the ZIZ Gorge
Our sleepy spot was Kazbah Jurassic hotel and camping and our fish fingers .. The site very full but they squeezed us in ..never turn away a paying customer here in Morocco He didn’t ask to see our passport so one assumes it was back pocket spending money !!!
Off again on roads of curious surfaces .. miles of roadworks .. zero tarmac .. very slow progress .. to our now sleepy spot at with lots of weather so hunkered down waiting out this storm force wind.. it’s chilly but sunny at 2000 ft .. May have to put on a Big coat !
THE DUTCH DOGGERS
Merzouga
Episode 4
Written by The Driver
We have had a strange occurrence at our camp site at Haven le Chance .. Merzouga …
A large tour group of Dutch motor-Homer’s have arrived ..They seem to be single in very nice motorhomes and every one of them has a dog as a friend.
The Dutch Doggers are all very nice and friendly but some of the dogs are a bit unruly.
The owners partake in Moroccan adventures..camel rides ..buggy treks etc but 1/2 of the group stay behind to look after an extra dog…they then swap over and have their own experience . They stayed for 3 to 4 days and moved on.
About 2 days later a different group of doggers arrived same nationality Dutch ..apparently following the same route as the others . The dogs seem to like it 😂.
We will leave the Dunes tomorrow and head off on another mini adventure ..
Merzuga
“A KAREN “
Episode 3
Tom and blue the cat packed up and we eyed his parking spot .. wakened early to wave them off .. must have been 7am .. but if you snooze you loose ! We packed Harry loosely ..driving into Toms spot !
But noo !! A guy who had been across from us who incidentally hadn’t given us the time of day .. and .. was instrumental in Lisa and Andre leaving to go to the next door camp site ..Gets out of his van .. telling us we can’t park there .. what said we .. he wanted the spot but hadn’t got out of bed .. The Cook was half asleep and doesn’t take prisoners at that time in a morning .. He informed us there was going to be a party in the dunes and we would be near loud music !!! She told him we OLDIES invented loud music and to Buzz off in Anglo Saxon English
As he entered his van The Cook heard him call her A KAREN ????
Never heard that term before I know some lovely Karen’s .. seemingly it the equivalent of a WAYNETTA .. oh how we laughed .. BTW we are still waiting to be disturbed by loud music ..🎶
Merzouga
Episode 2
LONG HOT DRIVE TO THE DUNES
The Driver found a stopping off sleepy spot around 3pm in a walled compound of a hotel .. only stayed 15 minutes and realised it was just too hot to wait for the cool of the evening.. Off again .. This time the destination was Haven de Chance on the outskirts of Merzouga ..A hotel camping where we stayed in 2022 .. On driving through the campsite to the top where we camped before very close if not actually on the dune our parking spot was free from other vans .. amazing .. and stop !
MEETING PEOPLE
Tom and Chloe .. and Siamese cat named Blue who kept us all amused by stalking the camels 🐪 .. and if chased by a dog his escape was climbing up very noisily into Harry’s engine ..
Lisa and Andre .. South African Nomads
A link to Lisa and Andre’s YouTube fun
Sadly we lost them to the next door campsite because they need to work and the few Brits (not us ) camping near them were too loud .. Yakking all day long in such harsh voices ..
Ross and Ann Marie
Hymer owner .. parked next to us .. a mini Hymer meet .. Again a very nice chatty couple living on a narrow boat in the Peterborough area and travelling in winter in the van .. We had met up before in Guelmim and established they were the ones we had heard of driving along in France and having a stag try to jump though there windscreen of the campervan .. new window required ..
Phoebe and Ben
Came across them in the dunes with a frame with hanging silks doing contortive exercises similar to Cirque de Soleil and photographing for Phoebe’s business promotion .. It’s is amazing what you come across here in the Dunes
Zagora to Merzouga
An epic blog more of a box set which will be posted in episodes
Episode 1
Left Zagora (Turn right at the Camel) via the local booze shop .. too too expensive but The Driver bought himself a case of beer and The Cook a bottle of gin .. The cost was the equivalent to a week’s Morrisons shop .. don’t ask !!!
Off on the desert road to Merzouga or The big dunes of the Sahara .. OMG it’s hot ..windows open getting a breath .. stopped to shop local produce and then off again
Along the road ..a Hymer van was spotted off piste .. heading into the hills on what could only be called a track by the looks of it
Met these two off roaders at the next camping site and they had over nighted in the great beyond .. at the site for the film set of James Bond’s SPECTRE
“Spectre”
Lots of other movies are filmed in Morocco ..
Cleopatra. Gladiator. Game of Thrones.Casablanca.Homeland. Lawrence of Arabia.Othello
Episode 2 soon ..
A SAFE HARBOUR!
ZAGORA
PARADIS TOUAREG CAMPING
Welcomed off the main road by a boy on a motorbike and led through the center into the old town to find this mini oasis ..
Harry and crew have put an anchor down to sit out the storms which have been pretty dramatic over most of the country .. but not here in Zagora just a couple of flurries of blown sand other than that a wise choice of venue ..
Flashbang stew for one supper .. this recipe comes from cooking in a lighting storm in Germany a few years ago
INGRIEDIENTS Potatoes cooked (Tinned would do but I’ve never used em ) chopped into small chunks .. Two onions..cut chunky 4 Sausages 1 LG Tin baked beans 1 Clove 4 Cloves garlic 1 Tbs Butter 1 Tbs Olive oil Salt and Pepper to taste Large frying pan will do the job METHOD Fry onions and chopped garlic in oil and butter until brown and caramalized Chop each sausage into 4 chunks and fry with browned onions Crush your clove and sprinkle Make sure the sausages are cook through and throw the potato into pan Taste and salt n pepper to taste Chuck in the tin of beans in tomato sauce and heat mixture Looks awful but is divine Stir and serve …
HAIRCUT
The Driver has been putting off a hair and beard cut for the last three months .. He thought perhaps of having a ponytail 🤦♀️😱 but today he asked The Cook to “Tidy” him
PARADIS TOUAREG camping !
Well worth a visit with its own pool be it freezing cold .. Amazing staff who cannot do enough to help make your stay good ..and one of the best Targines ever so good I can only show you the dinning table and empty plates
We had some bad news for two of our travelling friends ..
Wendy (Hairdresser)and John .. Full time travellers…Their world is in the van !! in Wendy’s own words
“Some bloody kids broke into our side locker (or it wasn’t locked hard to tell) and stole my hairdressing kit box it was in an old wella silver hard case I’ve had since college, I won in a competition 😔 my whal clippers also had for years and of course all bits that go with that. Luckily my decent scissors are in van. So pissed off.
Stephen got back to van saw them and chased them off but the ran off to fast.
We have reported it but no luck. Going to go to barbers in town see if they sold it on!!!!”
This one from Caroline and Charles .. a cautionary tale!!
“Could write a book. Another. 😱. Was driving behind a moped just now. Passed a lady lying on the side of the road. Moped stopped, so we did. The two boys helped her up. Couldn’t understand the problem so took her over a bottle of water and some cookies. We then thought she needed paracetamol so we gave her some. No, she needed a doctor or pharmacy. We gave her 40 dms (4 euro). As we drove off we saw her chuck the cookies and water in the ditch, get up and walk off. Boys were embarrassed and so nice. So all we actually did was add to the garbage in the ditch. 😱😱. Africa eh!! X”
After a while one tend not to be very secure .. a little lax or relaxed with security but these tale certainly make one sit up and take more notice ..
DRIVE !
TATA ..This area is just a stop to rest up as the roads are a tad rough in places and slow .. Camp site nothing to write a postcard about .. but served a purpose ..
After resting The Drivers weary bones as every drive is hard ..The reason for the long trek is to get to Mazouga and the dunes for a “holiday“ but first off again to another spot found in conversation with fellow campers
Now you’re talking .. A find ..
What a treat .. Sunshine ..A pool .. Sun loungers.. sadly missed a Targine lunch as the chef had gone off but not a problem as The Cook made carrot and potato curry in a wrap .. Sadly the weather turned as we were about to spend another day there even though it’s the most expensive camping ever in our travels in Morocco at 120mad per night .. which is around €12 ..
Again off on the road which is getting worse .. and onto Zagora with the weather following .. News coming in from fellow travellers of cracked windscreens with the wind throwing everything at em .. even snow was reported.. and this is the reason The Cook insisted on keeping as far south without crossing in to Algeria .. we kept the weather at bay .. only a little sand storm and half a dozen spots of rain ☔️.. To morrow a look around the town I think .. we will see in the morning now at PARADIS TOUREG in Zagora
AMTAOUDI
And stop …
Leaving behind surf sand dust flies and camels ..Miles and miles of desert roads .. some good ..some awful .. we arrive in AMTAOUDI
Seeing the sun rises over the vast expanse of the Anti-Atlas Mountains in Morocco, a hidden gem comes into view, where time stands still, and the beauty of nature melds with the traditions of the Berber people. Amtoudi, a charming village, welcomes travelers seeking refuge from the hustle and bustle of modern life
Amtoudi is a remote oasis nestled in the Anti-Atlas Mountains, far from the well-trodden tourist paths. Its isolation has preserved the traditional Berber way of life, offering a glimpse into an ancient world renowned for its agadir, a collection of ancient communal granaries that seem to defy gravity as they cling to the mountainside. These architectural marvels are a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the Berber people.
The village of Amtoudi offers breathtaking views of the rugged Anti-Atlas Mountains. The terrain, punctuated by unique geological formations, creates a dramatic backdrop for an unforgettable journey and a very good camp site
Photo proof of .THE CLIMB BY THE DRIVER << click
The Berber residents are known for their warm hospitality. Visitors are welcomed with open arms and can immerse themselves in the local traditions, experiencing the genuine warmth of the community.
The Drivers guide was 100mad and 20 more for the key to the Agadir
01/02/24
Guelmim .. After the AGM of the escape committee we are off to the Camel market .. Just across the road from our fly infested waste ground parking lot .
It’s not a pleasure seeing young camels ..hobbled..taken from their mothers but it’s business in this part of the world .. lots of interesting faces amongst the shoppers .. The veg and fruit side was colourful at least .. and at midday off to Tantan
Parlez-vous français
One is tempted to say on leaving Guelmim “What a decent road” but a statement like that results in said road becoming a dirt track .. but so far so good as The Cook hasn’t spoken out loud !
Guess what The Driver said the fatal words and now we are in road works..
Sometimes it help not speaking French !! Pulled over by police .. We were tramping on a bit.. “Bonjour monsieur “said the police officer as he came to The Drivers window .. Driver to officer “Hello” .. cop to Driver “Connaissez-vous votre vitesse”
Driver say “Sorry but Je ne comprends pas ..I do not speak French (Official language ) Do you speak English ? “ You should have seen the face as he dismissed us with a raised eye brows and a noise like Phuufffff!
Phew .. got away with that one .. usually a fine of £15 ..
The road to Tantan as interesting in the areas you could see a landscape but for the sand storm I think it would be very nice ..
Tan Tan Plage(The windy town)
By The Driver
The cook couldn’t think of a lot to say about this resort
This town has obviously had intentions of becoming a resort destination. The extremely large and well flagged promenade with exercise equipment and rubber matting play areas for children. This has now had some of the marble wall tops stolen but most of the street lights still work.
However there are many hotels that have been started and not finished with the the few that are completely finished looking a bit shabby from lack of maintenance.
There are some very smart houses and also some incomplete ones.
It appears that visitors just never make it this far.
It is a very windy place with dust devils occurring spontaneously.
We are staying on the posh camp site BUT the French have taken all the best places where gravel has been laid to reduce the flying dust.
We have taken a place in the lee of some Bungalows (they rent out) to try to reduce the dust however this is not totally successful.
We have frequently vacuumed out Harry even having to vacuum the bedding.
It is pointless doing a wash here as it would be nearly as dirty as soon as it’s pegged out due to the dust.
We have had the usual camp site entertainment, sat tv search fails, arguments over where newcomers can set up ( the French are particularly good at this BUT the Italians are LOUDER!)
We have enjoyed our stay here but are looking forward to leaving .
The second escape committee meeting will be held shortly with a departure due tomorrow.
The first AGM of the escape committee..26/01/24
Harry Hymer and his crew of two are on the road again with a feeling of exhilaration.. A wonderful time spent with very fine people for around 28 days .. We’ve fought off the French .. Adopted a pregnant cat.. sadly had to leave her behind .. We have been entertained royally by Miss Reme Lee aged 8 ..Her family are just travelling with three dogs two kids some surf boards and a sense of adventure..again delightful people ..
Been to the pub with Susan from Eden field and her lovely husband Ray from Edinburgh.. Camped next to Charles and Caroline .. who live in France … delightful and funny couple with whom John had Yachting in common ..
Klass from The Netherlands who took our plot on our departure which took for ever as we had so many visitors to say Bon Voyage
Our lovely friends Wendy, John ,Patrick ,Bill ,Mia and Roger from Switzerland..
Last but certainly not least is Marjan.. our friend and neighbour from last year .. Marjan can brighten any camp site with her wit and good humour.. her sense of the ridiculous ( very similar to The Cooks) and can see off the French intruders with a glance .. Thanx Marjan for being our friend !
Now heading to Tantan plage after a £10 full wash of Harry via the supa market in Guelmim and an over night on some spare land ready for tomorrow’s Camel Market ..
Prosecco presented to The Cook as the Driver open the first ever Escape Committee meeting!
23/01/24
Still in Sidi Ifni
It would seem from camp gossip the ambulance came for The Cook on Saturday night at 10pm .. “Not her “ Your Honour! Just because she is coming up for her 80th year why is it assumed from the other campsite it is The Cook who needs an ambulance ..
Again the gossip circulates.. This is what The Cook heard..
A Lone oldish German guy has over done the vino and fallen out of his van .. smashed his face on the gravel .. He wouldn’t go with the medics .. and that’s it .. and The Cook is hale and hearty again and running on all cylinders..
COOKING …
The Crew of Harry had a scooter outing to the town to renew SIM cards without success .. a bit of souk shopping .. and to the mini supermarket (“super “said with tongue firmly in cheek ) it sells biscuits ,cheese and milk ..
A cuppa mint tea was take later and a speedy scoot back .. The Cooks not keen of sleeping policemen .. as she tends to squeak a lot as she is bounced off her pillion perch ..
It is very difficult to unwind and accept the fact you’re wintering in the sun and there isn’t any need to adventure .. Tell that to the Cook .. not settled at all as yet and have been doing nothing since 31st December 2023 .. Doing nothing consists of Reading Cooking Eating Chatting Shopping and Laundry ..and The Driver did a little body boarding ..It’s time to move on .. Leave Sidi Ifni .. go south perhaps .. jobs to do before a departure.. Laundry .. Load scooter into garage.. Secure anything that moves .. Fuel up and go … Possibly Friday to Guilemn and the Saturday camel market and then off to TanTan plage .. but it’s all in the lap of the Gods
19/01/24
THE COOK HAS BEEN ILL !!
As The Cook writes this nonsense she hasn’t been up to her usual form .. SALADIN’s revenge took it toll ..
One night back around a week ago The Cook is gripped by shaking and racking stomach pain ..
Eaten something ? No ! A bug .. not that we can tell .. and then we twig !!! The Driver has been making ice from tap water ..in a third world country ? Noooo…. The Cook had taken her eye of the ball and really thought The Driver knew better .. but .. He says the water is ok !!! The Cook would argue with that statement as she spends four days sat on the loo .. any way now she is farting with impunity and all is well with the world
Nothing going on here .. Wendy and John have flown back to UK as Johns dad isn’t well .. leaving their van at Agadir airport .. returning on Sunday .. Bill has gone back up north .. and we are left with sunshine .. surfers .. sunsets and wintering in a warm environment
BUSY DOING NOTHING
Settling in to van life
Book read this week !
Find stuff in cupboards .. move it round .. then find where you have put it !
Spend morning prepping evening meal
A spot of rain !
Chat with people
Wash up
Chat with more people .. Put the world to rights .. Fetch water ..
Wash clothes by hand .. now that takes a morning !!
A sunset and a footy match but too late for us as The FA cup wasn’t on till 9pm .. BFC only lost 1-0
Fend off Looky looky men .. You want windscreen wipers Sir
AND THEN DRAMA
Marjan from The Netherlands attracts problems .. Last year it was SOLAR PANEL WAR . (See link if it works) This year she has attracted the towns crazies … An indigenous women of a certain age is begging near Marjan camping’s car .. She is ignored ..BUT .. The woman then screams at Marjan for two hours ..like a banshee.. The Cook goes over to see what the fuss is about and she gets screamed at .. Next day the woman is back screaming abuse ( one assumes it’s abuse as Arabic isn’t a language we understand ) This went on all day .. The security called .. The police called .. Nothing.. The police took the woman away for a coffee but she came back even more manic .. seemingly there isn’t any thing any one can do for this poor demented woman .. So poor Marjan has to move from her place next to the sea ..only for one night is she on the backside of the beach .. Now as last year she is next to Harry Hymer .. Women alone are a target I think but cannot under stand why Marjan gets it every time
02/01/24
SLOW BLOGGING DUE TO
TOO MUCH TRAVELLING
26/11/12
OUALIDIA SUNSET
A return again to a favourite spot and a carpark in town within a cat spit of the beach with it roaring waves hitting the rock formations out in the bay .. The temperature is rising as one would expect as we travel further south ..
Arrived late ish with still a couple of places left to haul up for the night 50 mad which is around £4-50 .. Guarded parking .. A walk to the beach for sunset ..passing the seafood sellers. The Cook would have loved to buy but doesn’t know how old the fish is and will wait until Sidi Ifni to eat sea food as we know it is fresh .. Lot of people mostly Moroccans out to watch the suns rays disappear .. Families hiring quad bikes for a swish on the sands ..
A chill is in the air and a dash back to Harry to get warmed up .. Cooked a cheese omelette and bed by 9-30 pm
27/12/23
More Toll roads to Essouria and Carrefour super store and a luxury shop .. Lots of nice veg and salad stuff to take to our destination .. which is Sidi Kaouki 10km south of Essouria We don’t need to do touristy as we didn’t last year ..
27/12/23 – 29/12/23
Sidi Kaouki سيدي كاوكي
On entering Sidi Kaouki Harry had a coming together with an old banger of a car who drove off into the distance before he could be reprimanded ..The Driver seems to think the damage to Harry’s back mud guard can be filled .. The Cook was incensed and her language cannot be repeated here
The campsite is rammed fortunately some of our old acquaintances had established a beach head and squeezed up finding us a spot to park in ..
Wendy and John have a classic Hymer like our Hetty .. Still going strong at around 32 years old .. a year or two older than Hetty .. This is their home being full time travellers .. we met firstly in Spain on a wild camping beach Playa de la Higueríca back on the 2021/2 tour .. and as they are Luton FC supporters who are playing round in the Premier League’s relegation zone with Burnley FC we have quite a lot in common!
The Driver has been fixing all day ..firstly we sprung a leak from the water tank .. lagging tape used .. then a dangley bit under neither was tethered .. I think he may relax soon with luck .. but no .. now we have a drained leisure battery as the fridge was accidentally turned to 12 Volt ..which means today we have to find plug in electric to charge us up again .. The trials of life in the road !!!
28/12/23
A lay day .. let’s do absolutely nothing .. But sit reading .. Downloaded new books from Scott who had many kindle books in his puter and kindle down loaded on to The Cooks kindle around 30 new reads ..
A chilli is cooking .. A wood fire lit in a metal wheel barrow .. chair pulled up .. lively chat with the English crowd and a decision is made to move in in the morning
29/12/23
The drive to Agadir is so much better now as the roads have improved vastly or perhaps last time we took the B roads .. Agadir Decathlon for The Driver to buy a body board .. but .. again as we were getting to the coast road The Cook piped up “ We will go past one our favourite beaches ..shall we have a look ?”
We did and stopped over night .. no one there .. massive beach .. coloured houses .. and quiet !!
30/12/23
The Cook didn’t want to leave Tamri beach but the body board had priority.. Agadir is urban sprawl now .. and took forever to drive as the main road seems to go though the centre .. Decathlon found .. Board bought .. A pink one ??? Shorts matching and will be used by Miss Grandaughter next summer ( if we get one ) but best of all was €25 cheaper than the blue one .. Always The Yorkshire man ..
Off again another afternoon of driving .. Arriving in Sidi Ifni late afternoon .. Said hello to Captain Bill from Southport We met last year and have kept in touch …. Last year’s pitch was available.. Set up Leccy .. and off to the pub/ bar fr beer and Calamari / chips
31/12/23
Looks like party central .. Patric The French chef is having a bit of a do ! Bring stuff ..The Cook set about making a Potato and carrot curry .. Cooked longer that it should be .. it drys out enabling the curry to be spread on wraps .. rolled.. and cut into bite size pieces
Recipe
Potato/Carrot chopped into small cubes
Sunflower oil in large frying pan
3 tsp cumin seeds
Throw in the hot oil don’t burn
1/2 tsp turmeric
2 flat tsp Ground Coriander
1/2 chick stock cube
1/2 tsp salt or less .. taste first
Half green chilli 🌶️
Cover with water and simmer
Poke the carrots to see if soft
Make sure water has gone and the consistency is dry ish
Fill wraps
And eat
Nice with plain yog and mint dip
Many nationalities at the Sòure .. masses of food .. A 13 year old French boy made a meat ball tagine ..that went down well ..
A big bonfire ..children and dogs every where
Perhaps too much wine scoffed and a very very late night /Morning
Over 2000 miles driven to get here .. 400 nautical miles sailed . now we stop for at least a month ..
26/12/23
24/12/23
(35.4723736 -6.0287348) Camping Echriquie 100 mad per night with electric
ASILAH
Scooting in Asilah
The Cook hasn’t been on UBO the Vespa since a falling off backwards on Sanday in The Shetland Isle so as you may be aware she’s NOT to keen but hey ho .. helmet donned .. grumble “too tight” Big coat and shoes !! Shoes ? The Cook doesn’t wear shoes .. only Berkies .. but no The Driver said she had to wear shoes .. she could take her sandles for trailing around which didn’t happen ..
Lots of squeals .. and a scream not of pleasure but of pain when UBO hit a hole/big bump in the road .. ouch .. but The Crew of Harry made it into the guardian parking at the entrance to the Medina ..
Inside the walls of the Medina are Art installations everywhere.. renewed annually.. and in our humble option are not as good this year .. last years were spectacular..
The narrow alleys looking so much better in the sunshine as our last visit was rainy .. Wonderful tat shops to browse.. ladies wanting to tattoo The Cook with henna . .. met with a refusal .. If she ever has one it will be a permanent one .
Cats everywhere laying in the sun or having a kittenish scrap all good natured ..
On our return the French children fancied a sit on UBO all three .. even The Driver helped to establish a place for all three ..
25/12/23
MOHAMEDIA
(33.7264991 -7.3356552) Camping Mimosa 103 mad with electricity
Our destination today is Mohamedia and a site we haven’t been to before .. earlier this year the site we chose was too tightly packed with French vans .. no space at all so a recommendation from Motoroamers brought us to Mimosa site .. just perfect .. a menagerie of various fowl .. peacocks peahens hen cockerels
Cat of various heritage .. and the campers dogs .. all very friendly beggars .. even the hens had the begging off to a fine art ..
Christmas dinner was Singapore noodle .. perfect for us heathens who choose to run away at this time of year!
26/12/23
To Decathlon to buy a body board but as it was the smallest store in the whole of Morocco the assistant apologised for not having one ..
ok what now said we ??
Off to our special beach where The Driver can hire one for £7 .. plumbed in route on Sat nav .. and off .. but The Cook seemingly had forgotten to save the route and ended up at a site already in the satnav OUALIDIA.. It’s ok we know it from earlier this year ..and will go to our special beach tomorrow .. never a problem when just wandering without much of a goal .
OUALIDIA
(32.7318409 -0.0417480) town carpark 50 Mad no services
24/12/23 AFRICA CALLS!
20/11/22
MERIDA
This is what the driver has to say about the Aire in Merida .. coordinates
(38.9249, -6.35571)
Places 1 to 3 have no electricity though you can book it ..We are in No 1 ..and you cannot reposition until your booking expires. You also must enter your requirements for , elec, water, etc . The system is not very user friendly but if you persist you get a free secure parking with service and electricity. This is due to become chargeable in 2024… Some people struggle with the entry system kicking and pulling at the gate and those (Harry’s crew) inside look on smugly .. knowing how it feels but don’t know how to help.
We got in without any messing ..
The Driver resisted a tour of Roman ruin .. one of his passions and as you know The Cook isn’t interested ..once you’ve seen Pompeii a couple of times the rest are tedious
21/12/23
Off again early morning and the Concensus of opinion is Sevilla .. but no Harry is on a roll .. passing Sevilla The Driver found another out in the sticks site .. Arrived but The Cook said “No it doesn’t seem safe .. lots of young men hanging around”… “Ok” says us “Let’s go the whole way to the ferry at Algeciras .. and Carlos travel agents for our tickets for the following morning ferry .. Bought at a total of €280
Double shopped in Carrefour and Lidl .. Gin beer bacon ham cheese brandy … all the things one cannot find easily.. Fueled up and found LPG .. filled the gas tanks ..
By this time we were knackered and eventually found the sea front parking .. Just 10 minutes to the ferry terminal in the morning
ALGECIRAS
(36.12, -5.44168)
22/12/23
5 am alarm and crawled out of bed .. Needed to be in the line for the ferry at 7am ..
A very full ferry with all the Moroccan workers heading home for the holidays.. an hours queue for passport control on board .. a stamp on your passport to say you have left the EU and now no longer have to count your 90 days … as we have left the Schengen Zone!!
Now comes the long winded bit of the journey.. Off the ferry and it starts .. another passport control .. XRayed Harry .. Police searches including sniffer dogs inside Harry .. Police again “Do you have guns or drones Sir ?“ No” said us ..We could see some vans being emptied by the customs police everything scattered on the floor . The owners then have to repack . Thankfully no Motorhome’s but you should not be complacent.
Next is insurance €200 for each vehicle , one for scooter and one for Harry.
Grabbed a bite to eat and off we went ..
22/12/23
ASILAH
(35.4722, -6.02786)
Onto the Toll Road and straight to Asilah a favourite spot from early this year 100mad(£10) per night with electricity.. A space is found in between a Dutch couple in a lifestyle van A bit hippish .. very nice and a French family 2 year old twins and an elder sister aged 6 and a cat who are traveling for a year .. home educating
20/12/23
18/12/23 and 19/12/23
JUST TRAVELLING AGAIN
A short drive to a caravanas dealer who laughingly took €140 off us for a new tap for the galley .. The Driver used the carpark to fit said TAP .. all is well again .. so much pressure the loo flooded .. again a bit on mopping up ..
Head to Cathedral Beach .. says I .. but .. looking up Motorroamers polo step travels found a lovely free park up at Faro Isla Pancha (43.5549828 -7.0425287) Just lovely ..a quiet spot with the surf on the rocks lulling an early sleep .. Waking refreshed to head for our next destination..only 10 minutes away ..Cathedral beach where there isn’t any overnighting … Wait a minute .. when we got there on the following morning campervans parked over night so I assume one can get away with it in winter (43.5528462 -7.1569708) These are the coordinates for Cathedral Beach ..
The tide was in so we couldn’t see the beach itself .. but the rocks are magnificent..
Now a change of plan …our weather app told of heavy rain in Galicia and north Portugal ..We’re not going into rain .. had enough in UK ..but what we didn’t bank on was freezing fog one side of the road was find in the sun the other looked like something out of Game of Thrones “ Winter is coming “
A plan was formulated to head south very fast outrunning the rain .. 464Km later we arrived in Salamanca .. been before so no need to do touristy .. An Aire was found with excellent facilities.. on the outskirts of town (40.9705 -5.7281 ) €15 All in .. and washing machine .. a meal of carrot potato lentil and coconut Curry was thrown together by The cook ..served with easyrice from a packet as we have leccy for the microwave .. A glass of Pinot and bed .. The cook woke in the night too hot as the fan heater was still on .. a bit of electricity and every thing is plugged in .. Much prefer the off grid camping with hot water bottles to keep warm ..even a window open for air ..
20/12/23
What next you ask .. Another massive drive south .. Thought perhaps Sevilla but after a stop at Lidl time and the day were running out 272Km today .. Found a free Aire in Merida (38.9255853 -6.3556803) and this is where I write this catch up blog with a very welcome G&T in hand ..
17/12/23
MOROCCO BOUND AGAIN
PARISH NOTES
I’M SORRY FOR LATE BLOGGERY
5 days into the latest adventure but zero blogging so just a quick catch up and I will try harder .
13/12/23
Wednesday..
Nails done 💅 and the rest of the packing of Harry was a mishmash ..just throw it in and put on your sorting hat later .
Grumpy and Shouty resolve their differences .. She wouldnt be a back seat driver and he wouldn’t shout .. Sleepy spot from last year found again and an early night
14/12/23
Thursday
A restorative Full English in Morrisons Bromsgrove and off down south for the ferry
BUT
All didn’t go well when Harry was forced into the wrong lane because of an RTA at a roundabout taking Harry into the LEZ zone for 10 metres with a £50 fine .. Grrrrrr .. Payed up and appealed ..
The ferry which is the new LPG powered one ..Salamanca.. was very late to load and sail so straight to bed around 1am .. Knackered
15/12/23
Friday
A full day of nothing only eating .. nodding off .. reading .. checking out who is the Spy .. Playing Rumikub and more eating .. We book the VIP lounge where all food and drink are included and one doesn’t have to queue in a cafeteria …One of the Cooks Hates
16/12/23
Saturday
5am up and at it .. breakfast and a super off loading from the car deck .. on the road by 7-30am
Knowing we had lost our stored water and an Aire de Caravanas was found within an hour of the port of Santander to take a look at the problem ..
Las HAZAS coordinates (43.388996 -4.21086143)
Water everywhere.. lots of mopping up and it’s the bloody tap in the galley
The cold water feed joint has blown .. a replacement tap has to be sourced .. A stay at this most acceptable sleepy spot over night and a google search to find a replacement which seems to be in Gijon (pronounced HIHON )
Gijon ( 43-.5450222 -5.6952816) sleepy spot coordinates
This is were we are now .. Beach parking .. all very comfy .. More tomorrow…
SOON ! VERY SOON !
PLEASE READ THE ABOVE
NOW PLAY THE TUNE
WATCH THE VIDEO
The crew of Harry Hymer here .. Giving you a hint of what’s going to happen .. very soon!
Yes we are going back !!
MAP OF MOROCCO SLEEPY SPOT UPDATE
DAY 93. 15/02/23
LAST GASP
Weather watching as things turned back to winter .. Snow on the high peaks and as we climbed snow at road level .. Blue skies and lots of Km’s travelled .. Avila to Santander .. Better to get to the ferry area .. Did not want to be caught out by the weather!
Three nights before the ferry .. and a need to find sleepy spots as the sea front in Santander ..where we have stayed has now a ban on MH .. so let’s see what park4 night app has for for us ..
First stop .. CUCHIA ..East of Santander ..We watched the surfers and a man water exercising a horse in the surf ….Two flat space on the road near the car park but a very sloping carpark and as the only place flat enough was taken by a guy car sunbathing .. sitting in the drivers seat with legs out and as the sun went round he turned his car round to follow the sun .. nothing as strange is folk !! We ended up on the road side which was perfectly adequate .
The next day off we wandered to another recommended beach east of Santander .. It’s the car park for Virgin La Mar beach .. well worth a visit .. The island cut of at high tide has a chapel and great views ..The flattest of parking is at the very top of the carpark which we managed with chocked and a bit of drift wood .. The restaurant was closed .. owners on holiday .. how very dare they !! We can always throw together supper of some description..
Up and at it on Tuesday for a big shop at Carrefour .. Bit of red wine .. A couple of bottle of gin but no where near the limit for duty free .. Let’s try the airport Aire .. says he .. We can plane watch for amusement .. This sleepy spot is on the marina .. very strange pricing .. so much per sq of van .. weird .. gates were open .. no one about so the driver emptied cassette and grey tank .. still no one about .. and off we went to a free spot very near the pay for parking .. overlooking the boats in the marina .. again excellent sleepy spot .. (43.4272677, -3.8098791) X on the photo marks the free parking
And that’s about it except for major queues for the very packed ferry and off home again .. To be continued with costs ..best bits and Km covered ..
DAY 89. 11/02/23
Just a quicky
Need to cook and blog so this one is a very short one ..(Not the cooking but the blogging).. after a long drive in bright blue skies with ice where there should have been water falls we arrived in Avila .. The Aire here is good washing machine .. The best showers and The best of views.. Flood lit city walls .. delightful
Sleepy spot in Avila (40.66200 -4.70460) €11 and €6 more for leccy
A very cold Avila at 3714 fr above sea level .. One of the best of cities in Spain Harry’s crews second visit this trip.. on our way south just a stopping off spot for the night .. Amazing city walls .. walked today .. Hot chocolate in a cafe in the old town .. and back to Harry to listen to the Burnley match on Talksport ..
DAY 88 10/02/23
Driving north back into the sunshine and blue skies but cold cold cold ..
A stop over with power at an Olive farm .. It was a place to lay our heads but nothing to write home about .. useful for travel stop (37.1762, -5.8760) it’s an aire.. not a campsite and a bit expensive .. small spaces and rammed with vans .. here are the detailing my photo from Park4Nites
Next day The Driver want to see another pile of stones here is his blogging below
MERIDA
Below info on overnight parking
This was chosen for an overnight stop as it had electricity and a secure car park. Yes we are getting lazy but it’s cold at this time of year and a fan heater can be a blessing ( if we continue like this we will be installing an electric blanket).
It also has a large number of Roman sites which The Driver likes. So after lunch I gave The Cook her hiking boots and off we walked the short distance to the amphitheater and theatre. The Cook doesn’t like piles of rocks and when we found that Boris and Brexit has managed to stop UK residents and pensioners getting reduced rates . So instead of €6 each it’s now €12 The Cook had apoplexy at this and I suggested If she wanted she could go to the nearby restaurant for a drink or lunch instead of paying her entry but she said she would come in with me and read her book in a sunny sheltered spot.
This is quite a compact arrangement as the theatre and amphitheater are only yards apart. The cook actually walked around with me and after a couple of hours we left and went for a tranquilliser of beer in the sun.
The following day the driver strolled to the aqueduct There seems to be 2 , a Roman one very fine and a lower one a bit tatty. Plus a termae (Roman baths ) and a stadium for chariot races etc.
It was a bit cold so the driver returned for a hot drink before heading off to our next stop on the way to the ferry.
Hilarity ensued as The Driver posed as the Russian ladies do when on holiday ..
TO BE CONTINUED ..
DAY 87 09/02/23
PARISH NOTICE .. Late blog due to having only 3G atm to upload or as you can see NOT UPLOADED for days !
CODDIWOMPLE
The word coddiwomple is English slang, defined as “to travel in a purposeful manner towards a vague destination”. That’s us !
- LAVANDERÍA
On leaving our over night beach before the Guardia turned up to throw us off .. 3 nights was a good stay without trouble .. A destination found in Nerja to do the washing ..(36.7453230, -3.8798537) A great laundrette.. Parking Harry in the charity carpark by Mercadona for €1 The Crew then walked into town carrying our worst/dirtiest washing . Struggled to find it .. found …but it was a service wash .. The owner A Liverpudlian .. sent us on our way up the road ..one we had passed but washing done now drying .. Spanish girl with translate on her phone informed us the dryers are not working .. she pointed us to another .. dryers working .. so on our way to our chosen third laundrette we passed two and had not see em .. sighs .. all dry now but don’t go to the cafe next door .. waitress with a face like a slapped arse .. don’t know why we offended her sensibilities but she didn’t like me n him
- SHOPPING
BIG SHOP Lidl .. The Cooks hates shopping but the need for ice now the fridge/freezer is no more .. banged two bags in the veg box it seems to be working ok .. nothing gone off yet
- FINDING A SLEEPY SPOT
Off went Harry back to the dust bowl (36.7439650 -3.8987511) Parked up but wondered why only a couple of vans where here .. Guardia … We didn’t want to be moved on and The Driver says shall we go to the cliff ?? The Cliff is a sleepy spot from last year .. old road not used about 16 km from Nerja .. but would there be room ?? Let look He says … and yes a bit of manoeuvring and we have a sea view along with the New Age travellers ..AND STOP
You may have wondered what we do when living like gypsies .. Read .. Dolphin spot ..Two big pods so far .. Watch yachts ..no TV .. only watched Bank of Dave on IPad as we wondered what all the fuss was about (Good film)…. We Cook .. Watch French chaos throw them selves off the cliff with just a kite and play Rumikub ..The cook is getting better at this game and is 13 games in hand The Driver had better try harder
- WATCH SUNSETS
- MEET WITH FRIENDS FROM LAST YEAR
Tamara is here with her dogs Runa and Lyla .. she was living at Mimosa beach but it’s now closed to travellers so she travels and here she is ..
Rain forecast and a cliff top with an easterly coming in is not the place to be ..Off again to find hard standing .. mud isn’t for non 4×4 vehicles .. A quick over night at Benajarafe ..Loo open in a morning for cassette empty .. another at Sotegrande ..On the carpark by the harbour ..Rain Rain and cold .. Spain is getting a battering on the coast .. Look north Crew of Harry it’s dry inland …
TO BE CONTINUED
DAY 78 01/02/23
White Rabbits 1st February
Parish notice
Please add a like or a comment if you like my blog .. I have 50 + people reading per blog but not many likes 👍 I like you 🤦♀️
Sleepy spot for today is (36.7159620 -4.1774654) Playa Benajarafe
Harry Hymer and Crew are still happily parked up on the beach reading in the sun .. collecting sea glass on the shore ..The beach here isn’t sand as we know it more fine grey gravel .. very hurty without shoes on ..
Wonder if tonight will be the night the police come and move us on .. seemingly this is happening all along the coast ..as I said in the last post camp sites are full ..one wonders where all the vans here are supposed to park …We will see .. Tomorrow we will move anyway as a shop is needed so possibly back to the dust bowl in Nerja ..
It warms up after 11am . Cloudless skies . 4C early this morning keeping us under the duvet until 10 am .. nothing to get up for ..Good books to read … Fishermen braving the cold wind sat on the shore and dog walkers .. 12 noon is our usual sitting out time .. it’s just warming up enough for The Cook to take off woolly hat and massive sweaters ..
This beach is the headquarters for the motorised para gliders .. We have been entertained on the last two evenings with flying displays .. The wind is the correct strength for them at the moment it seems .. The first evening we were here it was far to windy for these fliers .. looks very scary
Corned beef Hash for tea .. only tinned stuff left with our fridge freezer out of commission due to its death 4 days ago .. but we will shop daily and all will be well .. back to the good old days of camping without fridges and freezers ..and another sunset
DAY 76 30/01/23
PROBLEMS
No 1
BATTERIES LOW!
A site with vacancies
In need of electric to top up the batteries which run all our power .. They seem to be low .. Do we have a problem with them are they knackered? ..should they be replaced? Called in at campsites …Sorry Sir No room… Full to bursting .. Keep driving .. 180km later and a sleep in what we call the Dust Bowl in Nerja ..The Driver found one with vacancies ElPino above Torrox and off Harry went
We now know why there are vacancies..The roads on the site are very narrow and some are very steep and have avacado trees with fairly low branches. Vans like Harry are too big for the spaces offered but never say never !!!
We found a space just large enough but impossible to get into without driving and turning using other pitches . We parked plugged in electric and prayed that nobody will park in these other spaces or we won’t get out.
The good news is that after 24 hours of charge Harry’s electricity controller shows the batteries “may” be ok.. Listened to the Burnley Match in the sunshine with BFC flag flying
The Cook managed to scare away a couple of viewers looking at the pitch opposite from our exit route by discussing loudly the noisy Spanish family opposite and the trees and steepness of access.
On the second night it absolutely bucketed it down but it was dry by morning.
Batteries look ok on the controller if we exit via the empty pitches ..shoe horning Harry out ..Down to the dump(Dump ..empty water from tank and cassette) ..
After emptying we had to go back into the narrow roads to get out of the campsite and clipped a low branch with the back edge of the awning bracket …Luckily only a small paint scuff.
When previously filling with LPG The Driver was not convinced that the pump attendant had properly filled our gas bottle so this mornings task was to fill again putting in 10 litres ..Verdict ..it had not been filled properly in Algerceres
No 2
FRIDGE PROBLEM
After a night at the car park at Sotogrande ( Toroguardio) Highly recommended by Crew of Harry .. coordinates below
The Cook smelt ammonia …The Driver sniffed the batteries ..The drain cover nearby …He found it was coming from the fridge ventilation top cover .
After checking with experts found it is a terminal fault and Harry Hymer no longer has a fridge /freezer but a 2 compartment cool box.
At the Store 2 large ice bags where purchased and we will be eating up the stored contents over the next few days and probably throwing some food away..The Cook says only the cheap fish fingers ..She has thrown together a chicken curry and a chicken Singapore noodle..with the defrosted chicken breasts .. One for tonight and one for tomorrow ..She doesn’t throw food away ..The Driver made a Roast dinner with the half chicken bought in Sidi Ifni and saved frozen for a Targine which never happened even though we have a lovely Targine cooking pot found dumped because some traveller couldn’t be bothered to clean it ..The Driver succeeded in getting the burnt on debris off it and it is now ours and stored on the garage ..
After The Driver’s research He located a supplier of new and second hand fridge/freezer units which they will fit (by arrangement) but it’s in Ilford, Essex .
This is not on our normal route home but may be the best option to sort the issue. The cost is pretty horrendous at £800 plus £150 for fitting which is better than a new one at 2K
Now parked up on the beach at Playa de Benajarafe (36.7158354 -4.1774480) Haven’t seen “Though shalt not park overnight “sign so all is well .. very windy ..
DAY 73 27/01/23
GO EAST >>>>>>>
A lovely nights stop over .. After a walk to the Marina to ogle the yachts there were two the cook fancied but the other are so ugly she wouldn’t give em a second glance . How horrid is the yacht in the photo below .The Driver said at least 250K for a floating bar
Now for a proper yacht see photo below
Back to domestics …It seems our leisure batteries are failing .. we need a campsite to recharge batteries ..BUT.. All are full .. no room at the Inn ..Searched them all on the coast from Gib to Nerja .. Nothing … so now we are here on the parking place by the beach in Nerja phoning Battery shops/garages .. The Driver has found one so let see what tomorrow brings … BTW I would rather be in Morocco.. It’s easy there!!!!!!
Tonight sleepy spot ..see below ..
(36.7439932 -3.8987393 ). Nerja
DAY 71. 25/01/23
LA LLUVIA EN ESPAÑA
What a shock The Cook got when doing our big shop at Morrisons Gibraltar.. Firstly shelves empty ..No fresh chicken.. Fresh Salmon massively over priced (£9 for very ungenerous portion ) ..Never mind we will go to Lidl ..Shelves in a few isles full with repeat stock..lots of crisp and kitchen roll displays to fill shelves .. Now to the price ..Every thing has gone up in price in the last two months ..but being in Morocco where everything is cheap the final bill hurt ..
Even the big breakfast is full price again ..last visit before Morocco was half price thrilling the Yorkshire Driver
After a lovely sunny day crossing from Morocco to Gibraltar and parking in the Marina..with a wonderful sunset ..All the washing done and dry but by evening it’s cold ..It’s wet ..It’s a north wind ..and today it’s pouring down ..
Stayed another night in the marina with a full blown thunder storm ..
Today just off ..a womble up the road east ..finding a lovely car park sea view .. Only available in the winter months ..The Mediterranean Sea looked fierce after last nights activities ..
Had a minor shock today as our return ferry from Santander to Portsmouth on 22/02/23 is cancelled ..The grapevine speculated it’s an illegal immigrant issue .. We asked Brittany Ferries by phone who seem to need the boat in Cherbourg on that date ..and changed our booking to the week before on the 15/02/23 ..Grrrrrr
DAY 68 22/01/23
ASILAH
By The Driver …photos by The Cook
A cloudy day after the overnight rain so what do you do . Go for a walk around the old town of Asilah
. It’s a wonderful medina with existing walls and a thriving artist community and lovely narrow alleys to wander around .
We started with the periphery and walked the inward sections . Some lovely street art on the walls and lovely house entrances and doorways.
As our feet started to complain we sat at a cafe just outside the marina The Cook had a chocolate and The Driver had a cafe noire and a cheese crepe which was lovely with The Cook people watching . Followed by a stumble back via lovely orange trees in full fruit to a less soggy aire and Harry.
We had a disturbed night due to a party somewhere near , possibly a wedding.
At the morning chorus (Mosque call to prayer) possibly the second best of our trip ..The Driver rolled up the still soggy mat and departure from Assilah via the back door due to a large number of Italians on a guided trip and run by a noisy woman in Pink Lycra ( God save us from this style of motorhomeing) .
A cheap motorway drive and
a pleasant drive through Tangier to the wrong ferry terminal …
Tanger is very modern and extremely clean never seen as many men sweeping the streets
The departure of our Ferry was as expected due to good info fromLink to every thing Morocco by The Motorroamers and only 1 1/2 hours late.
Back to Spain ..a very slow smooth sail . Topped up the gas but only 8 1/2 litres to top up ( stopped by the attendant a bit soon we thought) .
Back to our pre departure free car park overlooking the port . Dinner and bed with Moroccan red wine and The Cooks special pasta sauce .
DAY 65/66 19/20/01/23
Heating on !!!! Shock!
Heading north .. Suntan fading .. Still sunny but very chilly at night and early mornings ..Down to 11C at night which after being south is quite chilly for The Cook
Another long journey via Mway ..All A1 for this journey at a cost of €11-48 a total of 226km The Cook/Accountant isn’t quibbling about it ..
Now we are in Mohamedia after bypassing Casablanca .. Didn’t fancy it although Riks Bar is on the tourist map after “Casablanca” the movie ..
Camping Blue Ocean seems to be another French retirement holiday campsite .. All very nice but .. There’s no adventure here and it’s giving The Cook a complex regarding age .. She still thinks like an adventurer not an old age pensioner !!!! These kind of sites are not for Harry’s Crew .. Sidi Ifni and Sidi Kaouki are perfect .. such a mixture of ages and nationalities .. Naming but a few Heather ,Ron, Marjan, Andy, Omu and not forgetting Captain Bill .. All interesting characters ..
The video is of the beach outside Camping Blue Ocean .. all very lovely in fact we may give it a longer stay later this year on our return
The drive from Sidi Kaouki to Our next port of call Assila has been 688 km and a lot of mway driving stopping over night twice .. We met a guy who didn’t think much of Morocco so far .. Poor roads he said .. How we laughed .. He was using the Mway .. Lord help him when he actually gets on to real Moroccan roads .. like The Road from Hell
We headed north having seen the weather on our app called Ventusky .. Magic app for around £4 and has so far helped us to avoid weather ..
First found Ventusky when the yacht race “Route de Rhum” from St Malo to Guadeloupe was postponed for bad weather back in early November .. must be bad as yachter of that category don’t postpone .. we had a look and postponed our sailing to Spain after looking at this app .. worth every penny
More tomorrow as The Cook is now two G&Ts down and is making home made burgers !
DAY 65 18/01/23
Question!
1. Should The Cook have bought prawns ?
2. Did she ask if the prawns where fresh?
3. It was hot at midday .. Had the prawns come for Sidi Kaouki or Essouria?
4.Is it time for The Cook to take Imodium ?
Answers on a postcard please ..
En route to Oulidia from Sidi Kaouki . and our first decent roads .. Motorway toll road .. A need to get north for our ferry to Spain .. Before MWay a visit to a small town 30km from Essouria after a biggish shop and fuel fill up .. A need now to find an ATM to fill our purses .. No plastic Sir ..anywhere out of main city .. need cash for toll payment .. Lots of shoppers getting home on the local taxi service ..
Traffic is virtually nil on this part of the MWay .. lots of time to look round .. The locals use the verges to graze animals .. Sheep ..Donkey and even cows .. With a close eye kept on by herdsmen The journey of 213 km with the last hour of MWay costing €2-40 in Toll
The camping in Oualidia is on the local car park 40 mad ..water only .. must have been 60 + vans parked up ..but what a gorgeous place to spend 24 hours .. The Atlantic roaring in to the bay ..Fisher men looking at the sea with no intention of going out today .. It’s wild ..
DAY 59. 12/01/23
Sidi Kaouki and a Drama
Chaos for our Dutch friend .. A blow out on the road ..Single woman .. Travelling alone ..
Flat tyre ..what do you do? Ring the Crew of Harry Hymer who are two hours away and have had a round of G&Ts so cannot drive back to help .. “Go to police for me “Marjan asks of us .. A walk into town of Sidi Kaouki .. Talked with police who talked with his brother who speaks better English .. He rings to find out where Dutch gal is .. she hang up on him ..Stranger danger !!!
The Cook texts to tell her the police help is phoning .. then give her a number to ring for assistance.. Someone changes her tyre ..it’s turned out he was the orange seller .. She arrives at this campsite near dusk .. all is well as there isn’t any road side assistance here .. just locals who help or not .. There is always some ones brother who is a mechanic .From what I can gather a Portuguese traveler stayed with her till the police arrived .. Today a drive to Essaouira for her to buy new tyre all done at a cost of around £100 and she is still smiling ..
To get back to Travels with Harry ..Sidi Kaouki is a surfers paradise.. very cool dudes with sun bleached dreds.. you know the types ..carrying surf boards or kite carts .. all very young .. and lovely ..
Wild donkeys roaming ..
Horses for hire along with beach buggies for rides along a massive expanse of beach .. all very chilled and cool .. not really commercialised !! Oh yes!!.. Had late lunch at Kaouki surf club .. had better .. but a great view from the upper deck ..
DAY 58. 11/01/23
PLAGE AGHROUD
French guy rolls up in camper van late “Want to sell beer ?” Said he ..Let’s call beer Rocking horse Sh** here in Morocco ..We’ve had to drive 200 km to restock Harry’s Bar at a decent price .. In Sidi Ifni small cans where 30 mad or €3 ..The Driver did leave his Yorkshire roots behind at the Door of the hotel bar to purchase a couple of cans ..A bottle of near industrial gin was €30 per 75cl still more than we will pay any where else… but Morocco is dry after all…
Now to settle down for beach time .. The Driver along with Richy from the other Hymer did a beach clean
.. The Driver hired body board 70 Mad or €7 but had on his second outing a misadventure … He forgot to take off his £600 specs .. not sun specs but his main ones … never to be seen again .. lost at sea !!
Our fellow Hymeristers trawled the beach looking as did we at low tide nothing found .. in fact very little flotsam to be seen on the high water mark ..A cloud was seen as they worked ..
We even got used to the pack of ferrel dogs who chase anything …at times around 12 turned up to annoy dog walkers.. and passing horses ..and quad bike nutters ..A pass time not recommended here ..
What a lovely 2 mile long beach and colourful village at its center..
We had a warning of the police coming to move us all on last night .. The Moroc police do this after dark which isn’t a good time for leaving as Hymer light are no use even main beam leave a lot to be desired .. just in case they came we had a spot identified in the village .. but nothing happened .. but a lovely sunset
Today on the move again seeing goats in trees .. Decent roast for a change and now in Sidi Kaouki on a site but not a site as we know them .. it’s random ..park any where .. no regulation ..find a spot and stop.. that’s it ..No leccy but water and loo dump .. what more could you want for 30Mad €3 ..
DAY 55 08/01/23
AGHROUDE 2
Above is the copy from Park4nights .. I think a French speaker ..
Not much sleep at our emergancy village car park ..The dogs were falling out intermittently and before you know it the mosque kicks off with the 6am call to prayer .. The Mullah had a nice voice today unlike some callers ..The back of the village was pretty dilapidated .. lots of rubbish and The Driver saw wild boar .. harmless as they are not used as meat in Moroc
Now to find the beach parking which alluded us last night .. back on the road .. drive 1/2 kn south and a right and south again .. finding an unmade road leading to the beach and back north 1/2 km to the front of the wonderful coloured houses in the village .. so much different from the back ..
Not much to say today .. Quad bikes ..camels and dogs on the beach .. A guy put out eight deck chairs and umbrellas out on the sea edge .. A business enterprise..The Cook created an art installation out of rope and a tyre ..She then got her book and we didn’t here from her again until the cry went up “Is it GinOclock yet”
Met two more Hymer travellers heading south or east ..who knows .. and thats about it other than Fajita for supper with a threat of the police may move us on .. we will wait and see !!!! Below The Driver looking at yet another sunset ..
DAY 54 07/01/23
On the road again
Up and at on the morning of our departure with the full moon setting over the sea and a camel herd walking the beach
As always we take the road less travelled out of Sidi Ifni on route to Camping Takat just south of Agadir .. One strip of tarmac with in some places pot holes you could get lost in .. traffic free almost ..
Camping Takat found .. very pretty .. all pitches perfectly layed out with shrubs and flowers .. all very nice .. BUT .. it’s a French Retirement Home .. instead of wheel chairs the residents use quad bikes ..This is not the campsite for us .. and a massive 115 Mad = £10 ..Stayed over night and off quick sticks to Carrefour Agadir ..
All urban sprawl .. after being in village environment for around 5 weeks it’s a shock .. traffic .. crazy driving .. and a massive shop as we’ve run out of everything.. including booze ..
Mr Carrefour took €200 off us .. hopefully this shop will last until we hit Morrisons Gibraltar
Onward but where .. The Cook has found a beach north again ..On the road another beach was spotted not the one chosen but a random car park .. we stopped for lunch and an afternoon of surfer and people watching which included a sunset ..
People we met in Sidi came to say don’t stay the night .. it’s a rave /party place ..Off we toddled doing something we never ever do .. travel as it’s going dark .. A place had been recommended but trying to find it was a very dangerous nightmare over rough ground .. no road and seeing our given location but unable to get there in the dark .. Now we are with the help of local women parked in their village until morning and daylight .. we will be able to find our designated beach sleepy spot with the dawn
DAY 51. 05/01/23
YOU ARE ASKING “WHATS BEEN HAPPENING”
STILL IN SIDI IFNI
Catch up time
Justification ….
£6-73 per day with power and WiFi .. My way of justifiably staying here in Sidi Ifni on what will be our 24th day of wall to wall sun ..and …. If we travel think of the fuel Harry will use .. and …. We may loose the sun !!!
Christmas Day lunch at NOMAD’S .. Company included 4 Dutch.. 1 Italian ..2 UK
Photo below Christmas Day …The Driver with new friends
New Years Eve supper at NOMAD’S ..Company 1 Dutch 5 UK
More book reading ..and kitten feeding
People watching
Campervans coming and going ..
Litter picking on the beach by our friends .. Well done Kerry Marjan and Heather
The Driver has taken to body boarding with the camping ladies .. coughs…. He seems to be very popular.. Leaving The Cook to read her millionth book ..and cooking corned beef hash with added baked beans ..even had brown sauce .. see photo below
Yesterday Wednesday 4th January The Cook had a”What to go home “ moment until the gang of six walked her up the steep street to the town for a chicken lunch .. This lunch was a thank you from Marjan to all the people who have helped her with repairs to her van and friendship particularly Ron and Heather for their gift of silver screens ..They had new ones made in Tisnit ..
The lunch place was at the top of the town and the walk not bad as we walked in the shade up the road instead of the killer steps usually taken with The Cook puffing and panting saying “Never again “
The pavement cafè is a chicken only rotisserie shop and what a meal .. Big salad .. Bowl of cinnamon flavoured dhal and a massive and perfectly cooked chicken .. All for around £2-50 per person
After lunch a small shop in the Souk looking at the official camel butcher with a ready for the pot camel toe on display
The chicken shop with todays food still alive and well
The veg man .. Fill a basket for around £2
The Fish man .. The Cook might try one of these beauties to cook another day
Money drawn from ATM and a Berber tea in another street cafe ..
There are a few beggars wanting baksheesh but one in particular who deserves a mention for his ingenuity.. A plank with a plastic bottle and a piece of string made into a guitar.. No music but he got some money for effort
The Driver has itchy feet and is ready to move ..The Cook hasn’t finished with Sidi Ifni as yet but knows it will take a week to get to the ferry at Tanger Med for departure to Spain on the 22nd January as our van insurance runs out ..perhaps another couple of gin o’clock sunsets before leaving this marvellous place we have called home for the last month
Boxing Day 2004
TSUNAMIS DON’T HAPPEN TO ME!!!!!!!!
Back from Sri Lanka after laying to rest a few post Tsunami ghosts. We arrived at the same time 08.15am on the 26th Dec one year on. This holiday will be the 5th we’ve spent wandering the beaches, hills and temples of this exquisite country once called Ceylon
I knew it by this name when the urge to go there entered my world in the form of a semi precious stone, the moonstone, creamy, blue, and opaque. Hold it up to the light and see the moon glowing in its curve. I was about eight years old and this little stone fascinated me. I didn’t have one but I wanted one and I usually get what I want by fair or foul means or if that fails by shear hard work. Decades hence I own about 500 in various forms.
The country is every thing I expected of it except a Tsunami, these natural disasters happen in the news paper, not in my world, but there we were on the Galle road, half a mile inland, thank god, going over the main river bridge which links to the harbour .The river has usually just a trickle of water in the bottom and there was this mass of water up to the top of the bank, rushing inland, at a guess 30 feet deep, High tide today we said!!!!!!!!Lots of people hanging off this bridge, we knew it was a holiday, Boxing Day for banks and Christmas celebrants, Sunday off for workers, Poya, full moon festival for the majority Buddhists. That bridge went down 10 minutes later and those people were pulling washed away victims out of the water!!!!! . So on we traveled after being turned up country by the police who informed us there was water on the road, totally oblivious of the situation on the coast until 10 hours later after traveling though the mountains and tea plantations, we arrived in Tangalle ,south coast, to find the beach side of our village had been washed away .Friends Chris and Linda ,who have a house in Tangalle, were at our guest house, which is on high ground above the beach, to tell us what the problem was but we hadn’t any true realization 0f the total devastation of Asia until arriving home one month later and seeing the TV coverage . The thing you think of are self. Is there enough bottled water? If not it will have to be boiled, haven’t packed sterilizing tabs, only take those to India and Nepal!!! Oh Hell I didn’t have my typhoid jabs before leaving, not enough time!!!! No electricity which means no A/C, which means sleeping in 95 degree F. There isn’t any sea breeze either, don’t moan about the smell of diesel from the broken boats on the beach . Get your self in control and stop panicking ,people are dead and you are not !!!
From then on we became more positive, helped out in the village, visited friends who had lost family and property, just generally showed support because there was nothing we could do until the army got through and took over the clean up.
The trip we had planned was then put on hold as it was to Arugam Bay on the east coast which was hit by seven 40foot waves killing hundreds of people including a couple of our friends who have lived there for 25 years. ,We were returning having enjoyed the peace and tranquility of the bay out of season a couple of year before,. After two weeks in Tangalle we headed up country to the tea plantations and the planters bungalow with its own staff including chef and house boys to look after your comfort at 8000ft
Then on to Ella and the Hill Club in Nuwara Eliya pronounced Nurayleah,This place is normally booked up for years in advance, so as all the tourists had gone home and no more were arriving we had the place to our selves. The hotel/club was a preserve of the British male until 1970 now native Sri Lankan and women are welcome, bully for them, Dinner is quite special, 5 course set menu is served promptly at 8pm The whole thing is carried of with great aplomb ,white gloved elderly waiters, flowers, linen napkins and table cloths , crystal glasses , one problem men must wear jacket and tie and as with backpackers one doesn’t normally give these items of clothing priority, “not to worry sir” said this snotty little male receptionist who wouldn’t have been let in the place before 1970,”We have a dressing up box” !!!This was more of a cupboard than a box and in it we found jackets and ties even a pair of shoes so Cinders could go to dinner after all because he wouldn’t have been allowed into the public rooms without this apparel, I nearly told them to stuff their dinner where the sun doesn’t shine but after a couple of very large G&T’s and current husband looking great we dined. After dinner a fire is lit in the hearth and large brandies are quaffed down before retiring to bed to find not one but two hot water bottles waiting, MAGIC.
Heading up country to Kandy and The Sharon Inn ,Owned and run to perfection by Sue and Faiesz Samad,overlooking the Tooth Temple lake and visited by Mr monkey and his mates , the answer is don’t have beer at lunch time and nod off on the balcony leaving bananas in the room because Mr sneaky will come and wreck every thing to find them!!! We try and head for this place as the buffet rice and curry in the evening is the best one in Sri Lanka and a reliable man and a van can be found to take you further north for a reasonable amount of rupees. We then decided to take advantage of the no tourist scene and see if we could get a bed at the Rest House at Polonnaruwa as it’s always been fully booked when we have attempted to go there in the past. Yes a room was available, every room was available “no tourist madam” the telephone voice said,”Would we like the Queens bed room”, seemingly QE2 had stayed there on one of her world tours,
Polonnaruwa is where the 1000 years old Buddha was found in the last century its about 40 feet long and carved out of one piece of granite , after nearly treading on a cobra on the way back though the jungle we thought our last few days should be spent in the height of luxury at Kandalama eco friendly 5* hotel . Its so eco friendly even the bog paper is recycled elephant shit!!!!Again no tourist, we practically had the place to our selves with three swimming pools to go at
Well that’s about it for this blog, the next one will be about our return this last Christmas to see all our Tsunami friends
DAY 37/40 25/12/22
SIDI IFNI ….. DAY 40
Harry Hymer and crew have settled in to campsite life .. Our normal way of living is free camping but here isn’t the norm .. for just over £6 a day with leccy and WiFi ..be it poor with so many people having turned up for Christmas .. Kids being home schooled on line as well ..see photo below of William aged nine and his Dad working with their view of the surfers out at sea
Camping Sidi Ifni filling up ..see photo below .. sound of the surf and the call to prayer from the various Mosques in the town plus laughter from groups of campers having fun .. zero traffic .. plane flights nil .. all very peaceful..
Settled into a routine.. Cat visits daily bringing her kittens for scraps .. French lady is buying fish for her .. lucky puss
Lots of interesting people .. Family from Cornwall taking a year’s sabbatical are the proud owners of two puppies left for them by the mother on the doorstep of their van in Tarfroute .. she didn’t return …Puppies now named Tarf and Route ..
Next to arrive was Doug .. His van called Sheila the Agila and his rescue puppy named Tagha again after the place she is from ..She was found taking her life in her hands on a road some where in the desert .. Doug and companion waited with the 6 week old puppy for the mother to return for a day .. but not to be so they kept the puppy .. now will have to wait in Moroc weeks for vets and paper work before they can return her to UK .. photo below of Sheila the Agila smallest campervan ever .. The story of Sheila the Agila and crew
Hawkers turn up selling their wares daily .. solar panels .. sun blinds .. and The Octopus man .. The Cook bravely purchased a smallish one .. Had its life dispatched by the vendor .. What to do next .. Never cooked one ever .. On the site we have a chef tutor from the northeast .. Lets go ask Ron .. No .. He doesn’t deal with fish .. but … next door is a French Chef .. Patric .. and yes he knows how to deal with octopus.. Firstly bash it with a hammer to tenderise .. then boil in salted water for 40 minutes with two corks from wine bottles !!!! Why ? We will never know ..After cooking skin it .. chop into chunks .. flour and fry in butter olive oil n garlic .. wow .. Talk about delicious
Beach watching is now a daily hobby apart from reading and chatting .. and sitting on the roof for sundown cocktails …The Driver did take a dip but said it was too rough for the Cook to go in .. see photos The sunset photo is unfiltered .. that’s was what the camera saw .. all very spectacular
Christmas Eve social event was put on by The Cook with a three curry supper made from scratch .. Table outside ..enjoyed by our new friends photo to follow WiFi Crap today .
DAY 32 18/12/22
A TRAGIC EVENT !
What an awful 24 hours ..
So sad ..
Let me explain … A French couple in a big van opposite..
I spoke with the lady in pidgin French the other day and yesterday we heard the news she had died in the Market .. Massive heart attack so we believe .. The poor husband seems to being supported by the French Embassy official.. again an assumption.. We all are shocked .. can’t believe it happen here .. The Cook was awake all night wondering what she would do if The Driver popped his clogs when we were on an adventure as she struggles to open the safe .. where the insurance documents are kept let alone drive the van back to UK ..
We went to the same market today Via the hospital.. outpatients looked interesting
Bought veg then down the street to buy outdoor carpet to keep the sand out of Harry ..again via our cafe for mint tea and to sit and look at the passing people …below a photo of our carpet purveyor edging our piece and a guy who reminded us of our lovely friend Manny back in UK
The site has some lovely people from the UK Heather and Ron who are long term travellers ..Their friend Margaret .. lone female adventurer..Now two more vans turned up with home educated kids .. and one from Cornwall with two Moroccan rescue puppies .. All happening here ..
Sat on the roof tonight chatting to Heather not bothering to much about the World Cup final until it went to extra time and we all upped and went to the bar to watch what The Cook said was the best match she had ever seen .. Now playing tango music whilst we wait for the home made paella to cook
DAY 31 17/12/22
SOLAR PANEL WARS !
Camping Sidi Ifni (29.3841000, -10.1742000) Sleepy spot
Whilst on sites in Moroc an assortment of tradesmen pop in to see if any vans needs work ..Respray .. new soft furnishings .. re do yr settees Sir? .. Sun blinds and the solar panel guy .. We had a sun screen made ..Perfect and so incredibly inexpensive for all the work ..
Our Italian neighbours had two solar panels added .. Very pleased with the work and the price but our near neighbour Marianne from The Netherlands did a deal with the solar man .. very cheap €150 for a panel and fitting .. Ahhhh but …
When fitting My Driver said to her “Second hand “ The workman had tried to palm her off with a secondhand panel which was not the deal .. she thought it was new for that price She got upset and indignant .. Andy another guy here on site and well versed in all thing electric and John got involved …They tried to calm the storm as the original quote was a good one but the attempted fitting of second hand gear was not correct. A new quote was put together with a brand new panel which was much larger was arranged and finally fitted with some quality control issues sorted . A good quality system was finally fitted which will now cope with more northerly latitudes as well.
Marianne wasn’t happy because all Moroc men try to con a woman on her own .. Fortunately she had us and others on the site who knew what they were talking about .. All is now well and we all went to watch the Footy and have a beer and food .. now back to write up The Solar Panel War
SIDI IFNI … BEACH TIME
DAY 29-30 15-16/12/22
So you ask what’s been going on ..
We climb up to the shops in the township of Sid Ifni .. So steep The Cook had to stop and look at the view a couple of times
The Driver was searching for a voltage regulator!!!! You wonder why ??
I will get The Driver to explain ..
It is rumoured that the electric supply in Morocco is so unstable it will damage your Motorhome especially the fridge. A local Motorhome electrician offered us a voltage regulator at 200 euros . I checked around the town to see if one was available cheaper. Non are available. A long term Motor-homer has told me that it’s not likely to be a problem as he’s been here for ages over many years and it’s not been an issue.
So there you have it .. and this is why we wandered around in the heat of the day following Google maps to find electrical suppliers.. wandered .. I say ..until The Cook said she was off back Harry .. To hot for wandering ..
A glass of mint tea was taken which helped the Cooks annoyance.. Bread purchased at 15 p for whole meal freshly baked round flat loaf and a quick stroll back .. Rescued the Awning from a sudden rainy squall .. The Cook hanging on for grim death whilst him self got it down but not before the pair were wet through .. All blown though now .. We heard the North of Morocco ..Portugal and Spain are getting a pasteing .. All is well here with a temp of 25 C and night time temp 18 C .. a bit sweaty
The quiet campsite is filling .. There were just two other Brits here Jimmy and Andy..who we went to the pub with to watch Morocco play France in the World Cup .. Beer was found and food .. and a cat … Now lots more vans have turned up .. Let’s escape Christmas we said .. Christmas arrived with the new vans with trees ..Fairy lights and the usual paraphernalia .. We may have to conform as we have the sausages and bacon for pigs in blankets but The Cook is nervous as she hates it all with a vengeance.. more later ..
DAY 26 12/12/22
GOATS DO CLIMB TREES
The cook didn’t want to move ..sitting in the sun reading was so so nice but ….Onwards ever onwards said The Driver ..The Painted Rocks called him .. and if Scooter had been insured at the border we would have gone off on him .. but ..OMG I don’t think scoot would have survived .. The Cook wouldn’t .. The road was unbelievably awful .. Harry manfully got us there to take photos .. The Driver did say we could return to Tafraoute but turned left and off to the coast ..
Photos in link below
ROAD TRIP TO THE PAINTED STONES AND ON TO SIDI IFNI
This road wasn’t too bad .. tarmac ..and at times white lines in the middle ..Another up up and up ..even used the gears on the way down from the ear popping heights ..and here we are in Sidi Ifni .. sleepy spot Camping Sidi Ifni (29.3841000, -10.1742000)
DAY 24/25 10/11/12/22
MOROCCO 1-0 PORTUGAL
STOP FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS … Sun and rest .. washing dry .. curry cooked
Nothing much to report Tafraoute is a pretty area with Rose granite cliffs towering above our little parking place .. The sun has eventually shown its face but a slight chill at 3000 feet .. with palm trees !! I have added link to save data .. Link to Tafraoute area
Here on a campsite full of French vans and very happy French faces after the W.C footy ..
But first to the Morocco win over Portugal .. The Cook watch the first half .. in French .. at the back of a cafe .. with mint tea .. A couple of pints of beer would have been acceptable but non to be had here in dry Morocco.. Back to Harry went the cook at half time leaving The Driver with Moroc and French supporters.. The whole town has gone ballistic.. Morocco won on penalties..
Sadly the England v France match wasn’t found on any hooky TV channel and had to be listened to on 5 live with VPN .. The Cook went to bed .. she couldn’t see the match in her head just by listening and it was too loud .. much to loud with the whistling and crowd noise .. Sadly or perhaps not France won .. To play Morocco next .. I wouldn’t be happy being French here if they whopp Morocco ..An excitable Nation !!
Tomorrow’s is a visit to the painted rocks and on to the coast with luck ..so more about that later ..
DAY 23 09/12/22
DAY 2 THE RR106 ROAD FROM HELL
IGHERM TO TAFRAOUTE
N 30° 5′ 16″ W 8° 27′ 33″ (lat lng)
Igherm parking
30.0877, -8.4592 (lat, lng)
Sleepy spot outside Gendarmerie Royal .. Sleepy is a word not used .. what with the dogs guarding their territory and barking most of the night then the call to prayer seemed earlier than usual
.. An early start for part 2 of the Road from Hell .. The Cook organised the google translate to ask the police what the onwards part of the RR106 road was like ..
The Driver came back with “ Not a broken road but much up n up and twists “ and so it was ..
Up to around 4000ft ..into the clouds Many hairpin bends ..Many blind corners ..Many blind summits ..Road edges without barriers with 3000 ft drops ..BUT there was tarmac ..sometimes not enough for passing .. Woops sorry there isn’t anything to pass for 50 miles ..
Until we came upon a convoy of three artics ..Horn to pass .. on a bend with one of the drops off the passenger side as Harry is a Right hand drive .. Coming into Tafrouete the roads became very normal and the crew of Harry could breath again..The Cook says her pelvic floor is in good shape with all the breathing in on corners ..Nothing more to add other than the sun is breaking through after two full days of rain
Harry and Crew may be heading for the painted rocks then the coast but the weather isn’t set to get better till Monday
DAY 22 08/12/22
THE ROAD NOT TO TRAVEL !!!
This was our sleepy spot for the night a rough gravely piece of land with two terraces. It has a toilet ..a shower ..a black water dump and a washing area with electricity. It’s not particularly nice but ok for a short stop.50 dirham plus 20 for electricity.
WARNING !! Between Taliouine and Igherm Don’t use R106 unless you’re a 4×4
THE DRIVERS VIEW POINT
The only other van on site was another Brit a full timer staying for a few days as the cafe had a tv and they wanted to watch the England game on Saturday..
Shortly after setting up with gin in hand the guardian Ali came with mint tea and almonds which was very nice and better than tea we have paid for.
It rained It drizzled and It rained again for most of the night.
In the morning it was decided to move on as the view was grim and it had continued to rain a little.
We went to use the RR106 the most direct route from here to Tafroute …At first it seemed a pretty good road but after 39km and a steady climb we found bits washed out then later more washed away and then no Road at all just a gravel track where the bridges used to be as we climbed further the road became more of a track and steeper
THE COOKS TAKE ON THE JOURNEY FROM HELL In all my many years of travel .. The Himalayas ..Kashmir ..Napal even The Yukon in North Canada I have never come across a road like this one .. A trouser browner !!!!!
. We said this can’t continue for much further ….but it did and at 6223 ft we had reached the top and no more washed out bridges but tarmac missing at bends with death defying drops and zero walls or barriers . The descent commenced.. Down and down We arrived at Igherm and I t was decided we had had enough for the day as only 1/2 way to Tafroute . On checking there was no camping stop so we opted to park at the Gendarmerie Royal I went into the police station to present our Passports and after quite a while of one finger computer work and asking our departure point along the RR106 ( a shaking of head and tut tutting ensued ) and Tafroute which is our next destination again on the RR106 our passports were handed back and wished us a happy stay in Morocco.
DAY 21 07/12/22
TOUTS AND TAGINE
This morning was the best dawn chorus we have heard in Morocco ..The Mullah had a voice .. in tune ..no rasping ..just a delightful tenor .. Needed to be up at dawn to try and get photos of the sunrise on Ait Ben Haddou .. Chilly .. big sweater on .. and hopefully The Cook has some to show once down loaded to the puter .. sent to phone and to blog .. There must be a simpler way but we haven’t found it yet .. this is why all her photos are from IPhone
A stroll to the fortified village .. seen in many movies …sighs .. too late.. the tourists had arrived in charabancs .. by the hundreds .. Tours from Agadir or Marrakesh ..
Touts out in force but all in good humour .. Walk high in the castle and a Berber tea stop .. lovely ambience.. tea rubbish .. far too bitter .. and 5 MAD more than other places .. usually 15 but this was 20 ..
Midday sun and a stroll back to Harry passing a cafe with Tagine for 60 MAD .. shall we said He .. Yes said She .. just the best we’ve had so far
Now off to TATA but not the long haul way stopping at TALIOUINE the saffron growing area to grab some ..
The road from Ait had various degrees of pot holes one bump had the driver pull over and kick the tyre in a manly way .. all was well but what a hole that was in the road
We climbed to a height of 6058 feet up and down again and back up .. Hair pin bends .. round and round the next mountain range The view of the Atlas Mountains is just incredible .. long straight road with little traffic .. and one drives in the middle of the road as the edges of both sides are eroded.. We like a car ahead as pathfinder if they bump up n down we avoid it .. oasis upon oasis amongst the bleak desert land scapes .. Such an interesting journey
DAY 20 06/12/22
ROAD TRIP
Up at dawn for the longest road trip so far..A drive of seven hours .. 389k on better roads but still full of potholes and subsidence ..(getting practice in for roads at home )
The amazing land scape changed over every hill from miles of desert scrub land to fertile valley oasis .. Every village has a turreted walled domain for the top honcho ..looking like childhood sand castles or the remains thereof .. Empty roads for miles but always the overtaker who will do it on a blind bend or blind crest of a hill ..Harry took his time in villages as the folk don’t seem to care about life and limb and just walk in the traffic with a nonchalant attitude.. waving at him as he slowing passed through the very busy chaotic looking markets
The next place on our route is Ait Ben Haddou a village used as a backdrops to Game of thrones ..Gladiator and other movies ..A good aire found after a big shop at a big Carrefour .. As Morocco is Muslim.. and alcohol free ( The guy looking after us at Haven asked for a beer as he said he was a Chinese Muslim ..FAKE )
The booze section of Carrefour is hidden away usually in a cellar called the Cave . The Driver went off to find his beer only to find the tourist population was doing the same ..There’s is always guardian parking and a guy to look after yr vehicle for a few Dirhams ..Probably nothing to do with Carrefour but Harry gets a place to park directly outside for easy access to shopping ..
Today all shops other than the big supermarket look to be closed .. WHY? ..The Footy .. Moroc plays Spain .. By the time we finished the last part of the journey there was 80 minutes to play .. At the Aire we found the family around the TV .. The Cook seems to put a curse in matches she watches so didn’t go in to the TV ..Just listened on TalkSport .. and Morocco won ..Massive celebrations..
BUSY DOING NOTHING !
DAY 18. 04/12/22
Harry and Crew have been here on the edge of the Sahara for what seems like days ..It’s only 3 days ..They love it here.. but they have got their dossing heads on .. even dossing clothes which are looking in need of a wash .. The sand turns one grubby .. The Cooks hair has turned Rasta but all is well …
Nothing going on today only the Group lead tour of Dutch Motorhome people went off on camels for a sunset jaunt .. Thirteen in total with all the others left behind in the dunes to wave em off .. How we laughed .. Once riding a camel is quite enough for the Cook ..four days in the Indian desert near killed her!!
The Dunes are still fascinating… The change in contour as the sun wanders around .. The softness of the sand is fabulous in your toes
The only news to day is the fact there have been two successful AF meals .. One a Fajita for supper and a breakfast of Hash browns and Toast …With eggs done in the frying pan ..
Tomorrow we may head off on another long road trip .. all depends on what time we get up .. More later…
“VANS BE GONE”
DAY 17 03/12/22
Still at Haven de Chance ….A tour .. An escorted tour .. The Dutch .. 14 van have taken our peace n quiet and leccy supply .. Can’t even run the microwave ..I know you are saying you don’t go on campsites and want leccy .. it’s cos we can’t buy gas here in Morocco…Now two massive off road German Wagons .. lots of chat ..Not with us ..and sadly The Cook is frustrated as she can’t understand a word that’s is said and you know she likes a good earwig .. So… head down into her book and ignores all .. phew!!!
The Driver decided today to walk to the highest Dune .. At midday .. what’s the saying “ Mad dogs and English men go out in the midday sun “ HERE IS HIS REPORT .
Up the Hills and Sand hills that is!( cook was worried )
Boots, hat and fleece doned rucksack with water and camera and off I go.
As I walked away from Harry I was undecided which dune to go for . I was countouring to try to ease the climb but there was still downhill as well as the uphill and every uphill is 3 steps forward for one step gain. After about 20 mins I decided to go for the big one and plodded on . I took several breaks to take in the view (get my breath back) At the top of each ridge then decided the most economical way forward. At approx 3/4 of the way up I removed my fleece to allow some evaporation cooling and hit the last long ridge and slowly worked my way up a little like Striding Edge but at approx 45 deg gradient .
At the top off with the rucksack and allow the sweat to cool me. Out with camera and iPhone for some shots and videos. Then the easier bit a bit of sand (scree running ) down the steep bit . Then work out the countouring route back.
Total of 450 ft climbed but really over a 1000ft due to slippage.
Back to Harry and remove my boots and a pile of sand as boots had become a bit tighter and heavier due to the fine sands ingress and another camel train on the Dune above Harry
THE SUN HAS GOT HIS HAT ON !
DAY 16 02/12/22
Nine hours sleep after a hard journey on the beautiful but trying N13 … Found our next sleepy spot after a cautious slow amble through various villages and small townships (NB Do not travel as schools turn out ) Boys on bikes five a breast ..ignoring traffic as we coast at 2 mph behind .. “Give em a pip “ says the Cook .. which the driver did as he’s a good boy today listening to instructions .. Boys on bikes ignored us!,
Eventually found our camp site called Haven De Chance (exotic name) Through the arched door today (play school lovers ) and a narrow winding pathway to an open ground .. park where you choose … We chose on the dunes .. Zero shelter from the sun but we can move if it’s too aggressive as the place is empty The site can accommodate 100 van but only five other vans all German are here ( Don’t mention football )One of the Germans has obviously got fed up with the off road quads working out of this site ..nothing to do with the hotel we are part of ..The Cook heard him berating the organiser ..He said he was on holiday and didn’t want to hear the noise …funnily enough He ( The German) shouted at The Moroccan in English … “ Coughs” The International language of the World perhaps !!!!
Arriving on an overcast day hoping for a break in the clouds for a sunset …Whilst wait The Cook prepped one of her curries for the slow cooker only to find voltage drop ..The Curry wasn’t ready for supper .. It’s ok as we still have a secret supply of pot noodles and when doctored are just yummy .. The Driver had noodles whilst the Cook who wasn’t hungry ( A statement hardly ever used ) had a cheesy biscuity thing .. well near a whole pack but who is counting …
The sun made an appearance very low and late whist we watched the camel train heading off in the distance
WHITE RABBITS
DAY 18 01/12/22
TODAY the blog is not mine .. I don’t have the word power to explain the wonderful N13 but another more eloquent than me has nailed it .. She is Karen Davis of the world famous MOTOROAMERS Her journal of this road is from south to north we have come from north to south for around 4/5 days Karen’s description is pure poetry so I thought to leave it with you
Written two years ago by The Motorroamers
N13 – a spinal road that connects north to Derdara, south of Tetouan. It’s a major arterial route so our expectations weren’t massively huge.
Yet what a scene shifter it was. We travelled through some big and wealthy administration towns that had obviously profited from their expansion along this vital north/south road network. And then we found a turquoise reservoir signalling the start of the Ziz Gorge. Whilst short in comparison to Todra, it still a thing of beauty.
Ziz Gorge –
– Camping Jurassique was a timely place to rest our heads, without too long a drive.
The oases continued to break the golden hew, puncturing the desert and mountain landscape with a lusciousness of fertility, vibrance and life. They certainly held our attention and with Berber culture thriving in this area, the Kasbah sand castles were everywhere. As we wound up and down, around curvy bends we flirted with the High Atlas mountains that cross Morocco in an east-west direction, obvious by the snow covered peaks.
And then after Midelt, the scenery changed again. Travelling the N13 feels like every corner is owned by a different artist, sculptors or creator. They had each marked their own territory and left their own personalised signature on the land beneath them.
66
Before we knew it the colours changed, signalling that the desert influence had now ceased and the forests were beginning to dominate the skyline. It was a pleasant change. Pine trees, cedar trees and green shrubs everywhere. It was most pleasant a journey. Copses that popped out of nowhere and mountain streams looking like the poet Keats could have sat here writing about daffodils. Perhaps we were in Yorkshire!
North of Meknes was our biggest landscape shift. Greens took on a whole new concept as the soil clearly became more fertile, supporting an agricultural industry not evident anywhere else on our journey so far. Patchwork quilt fields, onion sets and beautiful ploughed fields that would look right at home in middle England. This was an abundant part of the country and an interesting sight for our eyes, after the deliciousness of the desert.
And finally, we couldn’t leave the N13 without mention of the Rif Mountains. Officially they are more likely associated with the N2 stretch of road heading towards Tetouan, although they are still an amazing sight.
Geologically they belong to the Iberian Peninsular and the Gibraltar region giving them a familiar guise.
It was a fabulous way to end our N13 road-trip north and whilst there were some big stretches of road improvements and some gravel areas to watch out for, the scenery surely made up for it. Morocco continued to surprise us right up until the end. This African beauty really is a gift
SCURVY AVERTED !
DAY 17 30/11/22
EURO CAMP AZROU ….Bonkers entrance and exit to sleepy spot ..Baguette left by management on Harry’s door step this morning.. Lovely ..peaceful but nothing of interest to keep us here longer .. The place of interest for us is a Carrefour supermarket in Azrou .. We need VEGETABLES to avoid SCURVY and yes the full compliment was at The Cooks disposal.. Even carrots for her potato and carrot curry ..A pretty comprehensive shop for the grand price of £23 .. What you say .. yes £23 ..Talking of food The Air Fry ( Now known as AF ) starred yet again ..Last nights supper home made French fries .. Fish fingers … mushy peas and tartar sauce .. potato chips done fr 10 mins then the fingers added for 8 mins and sit for 2mins waiting for mushies to microwave … NO GAS USED ..
DAY 8 in MOROCCO. Now off on a marathon journey south to Kasbah Jurrasique camping .. Situated in Gorges Duziz .. Mountains either side of us .. Orange in the setting sun .. quite spectacular..but now for the drive that got us here ..Even a mad waving at a Classic Browny Hymer coming from the south .. I know but they are rare as rocking horse poo .. and we felt like we are not alone in a Hymer here in Moroc ..
DRIVER VIEW POINT ON THE DRIVE ! 238 K and 5 hours of driving ..
Police entrapment
They seem to be everywhere ..Sometimes on motorbikes near roundabouts …Hiding behind someone’s shed . It seems that if you are flashed at from the opposite carriageway it’s a warning. A gentlemanly code of road courtesy..However close to any conurbation there are usually police checks …. both in and out …Which may also include radar guns. Lots of Moroccans get stopped for document checks but we are always waved through.
The N13 we have been using for the last few days continues to have road works which mainly includes removing part of the carriageway or a cliff face but as yet little new tarmac laid.
At one of the roughest sections the ride was so rough one of the screw hiding plastic covers on the dashboard flew out like a bullet right past my ear ..WTF I said. I think this will be a nice road late next year or perhaps the one after ( be warned you will be down below 20MpH for miles) . However the scenic changes are dramatic and worth the journey. From pine woods with monkeys , to wine and fruit growing and sections like the moon . We topped out today at about 6000ft. This is well above the winter snow line with snow gates ready to deploy.
ABOVE THE SNOW GATES !
DAY 16 29/11/22
MEKNES ..Sleepy spot 33.890544 -5.564398 Next to the inner walls of city .. Near to Royal Golf and Main Medina …Guardian in charge doing a splendid job .. Cars everywhere but HE had the keys ..and plays JENGA with them .. moved em around to allow Harry in and out .. What a system !…. With Pre Dawn came the stomping of runners ..As we are next to the Army barracks these lads had to run round the walls of the Royal palace ..How many times I don’t know .. They just kept going until 5AM ..Next came the dawn chorus of a Muslim city ..All the mosques kick off with the call to prayer .. Not in sync .. one starts .. more follow and end in a cacophony of at least 20+ Mullahs vocalising their chants
Where to today .. just out of here .. Hate cities ..AZROU is our next stop-over on our way to the Sahara ..Lots of near perfect roads .. Up to 1470 m …Above the snow gates… open to us but February brings the snow and skiers to the hills .. Fortunately it’s 23C … The Cooks type of heat ..Just right !
Stopped off for breakfast at a view point/ potential sleepy spot ..even higher than the Midi Atlas Mountains over 4000 ft ..Looking like little bumps but in reality massive mountain ranges ..Coordinates for the view are 33.651094 -5.374946 certainly worth a stop …(I wonder how cold it would be to sleep over night here )
Now at Euro Camping Azrou ..Very quiet.. The French massive vans are here as well .. Cats and dogs welcomed us ..The price for camping is 25mad per person 25Mad for van 25Mad for leccy and 30 Mad for a load of washing in the Machine ..All dried in the sunshine with washing line we carry tied to trees … more tomorrow!
VOLUBILIS and MEKNES
DAY 15 28/11/22
It’s sort of sad leaving our very peaceful rural campsite with its electricity to power the Air Fry .. Three nights .. The Cook thought it was two .. she must have slept through one day ..
Off to Volubilis for Roman remains .. The Driver will write about it later .. The Cook played guardian to Harry Hymer..read her book (Highly recommended …The Paper Palace )and washed up .. Whilst The Driver went off rock climbing ..
THE DRIVERS VIEWS ON VOLUBILIS
After doning my hiking boots ,rucksack,camera and water I put on my fleece and headed for the entrance to Volubilis.. and was charged 70dh then approached by guides who wanted 100 dh. I said no thank you and legged it to the highest gate to look over the whole city , which was the main producer of olive oil for the Roman Empire.
The site was extremely well supplied with washing and bathing facilities back in the day ..Both private at the higher levels and public towards the bottom. It is famous for the quality of mosaic tiled floors of which there where many . Plus lots of rooms where it was obvious that mosaics once existed. Possibly due to the wealth of a major oil producing location.
It is the largest Roman city I have visited with lots of structures outside the city walls at the lower end of town showing the timescale of its longevity resulting in this expansion.
In the corner of one of the houses was a carving of a phallus just to prove every Roman township has at least one Dick.
After 2 1/2 hours I decided it was best to return to the cook even though there was more to investigate.
MEKNES
Sleepy spot (33.890544 -5.564398
No more than 45 minutes away from the campsite is Meknes .. Smaller city than its northerly brother Fez .. We don’t like big towns and the chaos but thought to give it a whirl .. Sorry ! A big disappointment.. even though our sleepy spot is just out side the walls .. It’s a building site .. renovation are in full swing .. all the Royal Palace is scaffolded and unfinished .. The Souk area is just like any market any where with it stalls of shoes /clothes /pots n pans more shoes .. not what we expected after the gorgeous souk of Chefchaouen.. The best area is the Royal Golf Course .. Slap bang next to the Royal Palace in the centre of town .. We were allowed a peek by the guard on the gate see link Royal Golf
The Cooks language seems to contain two statement WTF and FFS … Bullied off the very uneven pavements by arrogant youths The Cook wasn’t happy and tea was taken twice ..Two different roof top cafes.. Mint tea may I add .. Too sweet for the Driver but it’s lovely and refreshing ..The Cook has it sugar free ..
The strange thing is we haven’t seen a food shop ..Cake shops Take away even Burger King but not a supper market to be found .. Running out of salad and veg .. The stalls are selling pomegranates and oranges .. but zero veg ..
Frittata for supper .. with what is left of the salad
HAPPY LANCASHIRE DAY
DAY 14 27/11/22
Last night and tonight’s sleepy spot ..Take a break it’s lovely
(34.0153000, -5.5623600)
Nothing much to say today …’What ..This is the Cook you’re talking about … Ok so here we are ZERHOURN BELLEVISTA camping ..With electric /water /showers (cold) for £10 ..We think the bread man cometh this morning but haven’t been up early enough to catch him ..There are probably 6 vans here .. German Swiss and French ..The French in monster vans and towing cars in trailers ..
We are the proud possessors of an Air Fry unit .. Reason for buying is gas here in Morocco is in bottles..We like to fill our own bottle ..Second reason ..all our water /heating /fridge /freezer work on gas we need to use what ever resource we can to preserve the gas we have …we therefor took a decision to use campsites which are so inexpensive there and no need to wild camp to save money .. Its a great idea just plug in and switch on ….and to cut a long tale short this is why we now have an Air Fry ..no gas needed to cook our supper .. Bought in Gibraltar Morrisons at half the price of UK …All the driver had to do was change the plug .. Last night was the Maiden voyage of AF with a bacon wrapped garlic and olive stuffed chicken breast .. perhaps cooked to long but very tasty .. even the browned now fat free bacon was perfect.. The Driver wiped out the fat residue and AF is ready to go again tonight with a Chinese chicken noodle concoction
The Driver is going to look at Roman ruins and one wards to Meknes tomorrow .. Grab some money from an ATM and off south ..
MOROC TELICOM NIGHTMARE
DAY 13 25/11/22
THE DRIVERS BLOG (Edited by The Cook who is doing cute kittens and doorways )
Last nights sleep spot
This morning was the day to solve the data sim issues as the Cook had problems working on the iPad to write her blog with the Moroccan sim. A little hair tearing .. no crying but near !!
Apparently my iPod will not hotspot so The Cooks phone which is where she blogs ..She took an executive decision..deciding to get a sim in her phone ..This was a little easier than putting one in the iPad as Maroc telicom office was expecting our return. By the time The Cook had paid and the technical genius who tried to make the iPod hotspot work, the manager had installed a sim in The Cooks phone and happiness reigned for an extra £15 …
A gentle sloping stroll was taken up into the the old town avoiding as many steep steps as possible following a slightly different route of which there are many in this maze. The Cook taking more photos of Doors ? and cat ..A mint tea was taken in a good location in the main square. From this spot it was excellent to observe tourists and locals . A decision was made that the Medina could be left unvisited. The guardian area next to the souk was perfect .. not pretty but did what it said on the box for £4
After lunch in Harry a route was planned to Volublis a Roman-site of interest to The Driver (The Cook may have a day off as ruins bore her to death ) It is near our chosen camp site.
This drive was similar to our others with lots of road works with ..poor road’s ..good road’s and average roads and a few no roads.
It should be noted that at school kicking out time kids with mobile phones have a death wish crossing the road so care and unplanned manoeuvres and braking are required. The setting sun caused a few issues with our sun blind inefficiencies and some thought should go to fixing the issue …
On arriving at the camp site we plugged into power and broke out the beer and the G&T and relax . We may stay a couple of days . Curry for dinner yum The Cook has excelled herself.
AFRICA! WE ARE HERE !
Day 11. 24/11/22
ARRIVED IN ONE PIECE !
Even The Cooks temper had quelled after she rollocked the staff at checkin .. Hands up “Not my fault Madam ..must be port people” ..All aboard the 12 noon ferry ..
THE DRIVER VIEW ON THE LOADING !
After finally getting through the gate and at the front of the queue we watched the ferry arrive and unload.
When the centre of the ship was loaded with reversed on Artics ..Harry was driven forward with trepidation expecting to reverse on as well but no he was driven on and all the way around and headed back to the front only to encounter a large pile of stock for the ships cafe etc on 4 large pallets ,with the load master waving his arms at the stewards slowly transferring coke ..water and boxes into the lift. Harry and crew waited for the goods to be transferred to the stores etc. This would then put us at the front for offloading but no .
The frustrated load master started reversing small lorries up to the other side of the pallets. Oh well The Driver thought off loading may be slow for us after all.
However after docking we arrived fairly quickly at the off-ramp the artic in front grounded his rear end . Oh no The Driver thought ..here we go damaging Harry’s bum but no, the load master guided us at 45 degrees to the ramp and offloaded us one tyre at a time and no scraping of Harry’s bum , we waved a thank you to him and on our way to the checkpoints.
Now for the tedious part of disembarking into Morocco
Passport control and disembarkation cards queued for on the boat …and the much sort after STAMP on the passport to say we are out of the Schengen Zone .. No longer in Europe and no longer counting our 90 day allowance for European travel due to Brexit Rules
For disembarkation read The Drivers view point above .. Off first to passport control .. A quick stamp and off again .. Followed the exit signs for miles .. thought we were heading out of the port but no. A sign to D16 Vehicle import and export … this is a vital piece of paper you need to be sure that you and your visiting vehicle will be leaving the country …The customs police do it all for you so we sat tight until were asked to drive to a holding area …..I Within 15 minutes our V5 (vehicle log book) and The Drivers passport are taken to the kiosk by the police .. The D16 is a small credit card size card that you must keep safely as you will be asked to hand it over on your return journey ..WHY you ask .. to make sure you are not importing vehicles into Morocco..The documents were returned to us but the officer hadn’t seen both sheets and hadn’t authorised the scooters D 16 ..so off he went back and no more than three minutes presented us with another credit card sized document for the scooter..
When the D 16 and passport were firmly back in our possession we rolled again another hundred metres where there is another border control check and off you go the final step of the process …The driver had to go another hundred metres where there are some cabins on your left side ..here you buy your third party insurance if you don’t already have a green card and exchange your money ..we had already exchanged our money so all we needed was the green card for both vehicles …seemingly the attendants all speak English so there was no need to worry ..they give you a receipt for your money and that’s it you’re good to go it’s a long drawn out process but seems to work and off you go out of the port but have yet one Police check .. even after having sniffer dogs all over your motorhome and people asking you strange things like do we have weapons ..a couple of kitchen knives but that’s about it probably pepper and a shovel .. (The Cooks sarcasm wasn’t spoken just thought)
After a minor satnav issue we decided to go to the reservoir recommended by Karen and Myles Davis of the Motoroamers ..LINK TO MOTOROAMERS A couple whose knowledge of all things travelling is called upon in need … Two years ago when they were here it was obviously prettier than it is now as the area has been taken over as the construction dumping site for motorway work but we don’t care we stopped …We stayed ..We watch the wagons ..We watch the diggers ..We watched them all.. Even the scraper flattening dumped stone from the road in wagons …All okay the sheep and goats and cows are still being taken across the area ..A dog is still begging for food and we have had a lovely supper of salmon and new potatoes with asparagus tips..BTW The weather is awful but hopefully tomorrow will be better.. Top photo how it should have looked curtesy of Motoroamers blog ..next how it looks now and a night shot ..PS No phone until we get sim for phone .. or spend £6 per day from Vodafone as we are doing now
BEYOND FURY !!!!
DAY 10 23/11/22
Last nights sleepy spot .. (36.1332417 -5.4442979)
THE STORY
Didn’t sleep well so up at 3-45 to be first in line for the ferry to Morocco.. Cuppa coffee and chocolate biscuits just to give The Cook a boost .. Mini prob in the dark finding the area to get to the terminal but all was well .. Ferry at 9am … 8 am not been called as yet .. 8-30 am not called .. 9 am the £&@;$$>#% ferry left without us as the steward had put us in the wrong line .. I gave her my best death stare !! we were in line for the Balearics .. Cannot believe such incompetence .. and we sat there and let it happen .. ok now .. had Sushi for breakfast as a soother .. now in line for the next ferry throwing our plans out the window .. May be dark by the time we have disembarked and gone through all the rigmarole of money change and third party insurance for vehicles.. We have been warned not to drive in the dark so have found a sleepy spot near the ferry terminal and will re group and head off tomorrow .. perhaps it’s fate ??? Who knows !!! More tomorrow when I am not so bl£&#%%^y angry 😡
MORRISON’S BOUND TODAY !
DAY 9 22/11/22
Rain and wind all night but on waking at dawn the sun is shining for our busy busy day .. Into Gibraltar with The Big H .. ok you say “Is that wise “ we read of someone who took his 8 m Motorhome in .. so off we go .. Passport stamped at the border .. Back in UK territory.. with an M&S but it’s Morrison’s we are heading to for a BIG shop before cross to Morocco in the morning .. What can’t we buy in Morocco ?BACON !!! and for cheaper diesel than in Spain .. Morocco May be cheap but we don’t know yet !
Shopping done now and an all day breakfast which is half price atm £2-99 per person … We had one each with gorgeous fresh coffee ..
Next stop book the ferry to Morocco from The Famous Carlo’s ..A booking agency famed for ticketing and changing € to MAD ..Morocco dirhams 10 to the Euro .. All done in 50 mins and relieved of €330 open return .. Next stop Lidl for enough booze to last 6 weeks (Geeez) .. Next was Carrefour the massive store for a battery for the tyre pressure sensor.. The “Thingy” which keep going off .. frightening The Cook to death .. Guess what .. came out with an AirFry gadget ..The thought is to use on leccy on campsites which in Morocco are so cheap .. and gas refill isn’t available only bottles .. AirFry will come in handy and
“It’s fashion “said The Cook “Every body has one “..
Next stop the gas filling station to get a fill up before leaving .. Now all sorted and parked up near ferry terminal for 4 am wake up and (Stagger) drive to get in the queue .. First ferry of the day hopefully..
MOROCCO BOUND VIA MORRISON’S
Day 8 21/11/22
Decent nights sleep after a repast of M&S Hot Chicken curry and Uncle Bens rice .. Don’t we just love being plugged into Leccy and an ability to use our Microwave ..
Awakened to overcast dreary day in Sevilla .. Good for travelling our next 200 km down to the marina at the north eastern bay of the Gibraltar peninsula .. Coordinates (36.1567 -5.3557)
On leaving our sleepy place Harry had a unfortunate incident on a reverse manoeuvre and the pole for electric hook up jumped out and bit his bum .. Never mind said the Cook we will order OUCH stickers from Jon Chapman .. The guy to go to for the only Aire on Sandy in the Shetland isles ..pizza and stickers ..Look him up ..We need a couple now after various bumps ..LINK TO JON AT 59 Degrees North for all your stickers
Morrison’s shop tomorrow 💚
MOROCCO BOUND!
DAY 7 20/11/22
Books read so far ..Highly recommended!
Still in Seville but zero Scooter rides .. The Driver thought better of it as Seville isn’t traffic friendly .. He said better not try out The Cooks nerves in a city .. A taxi was called to take us to The Cathedral de Sevilla ..
Massive ..Biggest Cathedral in Europe the Driver informs the Cook .. We went to Alcazar last time we were here (see repeated links below) so didn’t need to go again .. but what we missed was the Plaza de Espana .. What a fabulous treat ..how we missed it last time is a mystery ..We have come to see the Gypsy Flamenco dances performing..Luck was in and we caught em full tapping Plaz de Espana This is not my vid as it wouldn’t up load ..All very similar to our experience.. Back to Harry walking through the gardens ..A fail as we crossed the wrong bridge and had to call out taxi again .. The city is perfect of bike travel ..lots of cycle lanes getting one around quickly ..
Last adventure here 2014 Ladies of Spain 2014 Easter in Sevilla . We got so lost and dead in our feet we said never again would we just walk n walk to find our way back any where !!!
Tomorrow Gibraltar and a stock up at Morrisons even an all day breakfast.. more later
MOROCCO BOUND!
Day ? Ok … It’s day 6
19/11/22
266 km .. A driving day .. Heading for Seville ..Raptors above the road searching for that mouse ..V formations of geese winging south ..Long monotonous drive through Olive plantations .. The Cook thought (bored) if she put on her olive green leggings and black coat she would be in full camouflage in the trees .. Just saying
Loud noise erupts from the dash .. Cook jumps out of her skin ..It’s a “Thingy” for warning of tyre pressure changes .. Once upon a day men just walked round the vehicle kicking said tyre now a monitor to frighten ladies ..
The Cook disrobes out of one of her sweaters .. still wearing two .. It’s getting warmer .. soon be south .. Now in Seville at our chosen sleepy spot .. not the most salubrious of camping but it’s near the centre .. The info said 15 minutes to the historic centre but we know different .. it’s a least 45 minutes so tomorrow it’s scooter day .. Eeeeek 🥴🤦♀️ Off to find the Flamenco dancers and see the cathedral which we missed last time we were here .. The Cook doesn’t do scooter but feels she must as the walk to and from is miles n miles …..more tomorrow… if she survives !!!!
Supper tonight is chicken Fajitas.. takes a bit of organising in a MH but The Driver deserves it for his good ..in fact amazing driving today .. only lost his way twice in Seville but after doing a round n round He found our sleepy spot ..
MOROCCO BOUND !
Day 5 …We think
18/11/22
Tonight’s sleepy spot Caceres Aire de Camping car ( 39.4893681 -6.3665094)
A change to the plan we didn’t really have .. This morning after the rain the sun shone The Driver said “Let’s have a look at the official Aire to see if there is a space .. if so we will stay another day “ Yes ! Someone had moved on and Harry got a place which means a walk up and up .. The Cook thought she had been reprieved from marathon walks because The Driver injured his Achilles tendon which threw his hip out and gave him lots of pain when walking ….NO such luck as he is walking very well again ..
It’s a stroll .. a steep stroll .. up n up to Caceres old town with it very uneven cobblestone alleys.. On arriving in old town it was full of pre Christmas tat stalls .. not the quiet gently place we remember.. Dozens of rotisserie stalls serving PIG .. alongside sausages ,squid ,Spanish egg n chips ..tables n chairs available for eating with buckets of Sangria to drink .. Smell was wonderful .. but we walk on by to the Cathedral.. We’d been before and climbed the tower before .. but being a glutton for punishment The Cook said she would do it again even though she remembered it as a bit of a nightmare .. narrow and very steep
A wander into a garden with a 400 year old gnarled Fig tree ..Hearing singing we strolled into The Plaza de Mayor to find a hundred or more teenagers in traditional costume dancing in formation a folk dance .. We didn’t know why but was fun to watch with a cold beer and tapas sat in the square at a small cafe … The Driver being a Yorkshire man was amazed at the cost ….only €6 then a gentle stroll back to Harry with The Cook complaining about her feet .. ankles .. knees and wearing shoes far too new and unbroken in for marathon strolls .. Perhaps Seville tomorrow.. who knows?
MOROCCO BOUND!
DAY 4 17/11/22
Last night sleepy spot Avila the beautiful. (40.6616917 -4.7056717)
On leaving Avila where next was the cry .. south ..south as the clouds rolled and bubbled black over Madrid area east of us .. Another 236 Kilometres under our belt .. Head for Caceres.. nice ..love it there .. Guess what ..the aire was jammed .. no room at the inn for Harry and crew ..Fortunately we have been here possibly 3 times before so no problems .. Here is a photo below ⬇️ from our last visit for your perusal and two sets of coordinates for sleepy spots .. Our advise is if you want to stay in the aire which is 15 minutes from the gorgeous medieval centre .. Get here early morning and wait till some one moves on and whip in like a greyhound out of a trap
Here are the two places for MH’s in Caceres
The second sleepy spot is where we are now .. quiet ..open park land with housing behind us .. couple of chocks under one side and we are happily ensconced ready for sleep and off again tomorrow further south .. possibly to the ferry for Morocco 🇲🇦
MOROCCO BOUND
DAY 2 and 3
15&16 /11/22
Sailing at 21-30 hours
All aboard the sky lark (Brittany ferry Galicia ).. After fighting the Clean air zone in Portsmouth as we left Southsea prom ( a very nice free parking spot out of season ) Harry Hymer was first in to the lower level of the ferry meaning we would be first to disembark in Spain .. good move Sir says I …Up the Purple stairs .. no lift .. not fun with heavy walk on bags for two nights on board .. up to deck 7.. Phew ..from deck 2 .. The cook only just made it without a collapse to the top and she wasn’t carrying the heavy stuff .. Next time she says she will limp and get assisted access to the lifts ..
Supper ..Cabin picnic for us .. a couple of gins in the bar .. and the Cook embarrassing the Driver by nicking a fellow passengers olives ..They we’re just laying there on the bar so she dipped in !! Cabin picnic food consisted of Tortillas chips and dip for starters and Pot noodle for main ..finishing off with a cuppa tea and ginger biscuits and so to bed ..Even though the sea was a little bumpy at time we slept well ..
After breakfast ….costing £30 phew…. the ferry took the inshore passage inside all the islands for shelter as the weather had got up to Gale + winds from the west .. Further south the boat was exposed to the full westerly winds .. it rolled around severely clearing some of the tables in the bar of all drinks .. crash .. bang.. wallop..
Supper was served .. lots of passengers bailed out from the restaurant ..some taking dinner with them …some just left looking green .. We just smiled ordered more gin and tucked in to Prawns ( The massive type ) Then hake on a bed of black rice for main .. just yummy ..even downed a bottle of something white ..
BUT ………
What a night .. Crashing and banging .. Rocking and rolling south across the Bay of Biscay ..we managed a couple of hours sleep only ..
Staggered into Harry for disembarkation and bombed south .. with passports stamped …Rain and wind .. One stop for fuel @ £1-35 ltr ..another to fix the windscreen wiper as it stopped working …Long drive of 363 km and arrived in Avila .. a place we know of old ..(coords) Sleepy spot 40.66211 -4.70568
More later …
DAY 1 MOROCCO BOUND!
14/11/22
Wild Oak Inn near Bromsgrove off M5
Lights on no one at home
(52.3793000, -2.0559500) sleepy spot coords for other adventurers
Leaving home after the T20 World Cup ( We won) and legged it down M6 and M5 ..getting dark so the driver ask for the nights sleepy spot ..Go to searchforsites he says …found one says I …Wild oak Inn… What a good job I did not read the comment. Yes only one comment .. If I had of done, I certainly wouldn’t have gone as the review was pretty awful. Not about the place or the food ..The pub required a phone call before turning up these people rang and rang and got absolutely no reply and on arrival found pub closed ..for repairs…on reading ppls comments on Facebook the pub seems it gone bust ..what a shame as I really fancied Caribbean food …but in saying this there is a parking spot across from the pub suitable for staying which we did ..just off the M5 …the only noise was the owls hunting ..slept 11 hours
Monday is the off on the ferry.. The weather looks appalling.. Sturgeon is taken even though we haven’t ever been sea sick .. more later ..
ABOUT US AS WE HEAD TO MOROCCO !!!
AN INTERVIEW OF OUR TRAVELS BY JOANNE OF OURBUMBLE FAME
This weeks inspiration comes from my little travel angel and good friend Susan. Susan has a wicked sense of humour and I just love her to bits..so hope you enjoy Susan’s interview…
1. Tell us a little about you like your name and where do you come from
ME…Susan Sharman … from Nelson Lancs ..Moved to Surrey in the 70’s learned to Sail ..Had my own boat and sailed the south coast ..Moved back to Lancashire …Live in a village out of town now ..Hairdresser to the Stars ..Slight exaggeration ..Cut one of the Hollies hair and permed the lead guitar of the BeeGee’s and trained Elton John last hairdresser back in the day …Now thankfully Retired ! 51 years is along shift..One son Daniel + One Granddaughter aged eight
HIM ..John Sharman ..born Leeds .Civil Engineering (water) Met him at my sailing club ..Mmm I thought ..Tall ✔️ ..all his own teeth ✔️ ..Talented Handyman ✔️A Son and a Daughter +Two Grandsons
There are still heel marks on the road as I dragged him ..not quite kicking and screaming.. across the border into Lancashire from Yorkshire ..we’ve been together now for around 34 years and married 29 next May .
2. What sort of motorhome traveller are you? Full time / part time / short breaks / long stay
I don’t like the word Motorhomer.. We are not like most as we hate campsites ..more travellers ..I’m convinced I have a bit of Gypsy in my gene pool ..Pull up any where .. as long as we are not offending the locals and leave nothing ..in fact I tend to clean up other people’s mess to keep the good name of wild campers ..
3. When did you first start motorhoming and what inspired you to start?
Bought our first van after a disastrous tenting trip to Ireland ..A sailing event towing the boat .. This looks a good spot to erect the tent HE said ..No ..On the outlet to the sailing club showers !!! ..It rained …river running through my tent ..slugs in the cold box ..Never again
So to facilitate the sailing ⛵️ events which was every weekend somewhere in the British isles ..we sold my car (screams) to buy a Fiat Camelot ..Bertie The Boating Bus by name with a tow bar to trail the sailing dinghy
Two years later after adventures in Spain.. Portugal and Ireland Bertie was stolen from our back door even though disabled with the battery flat !! We think we know who did it but the police couldn’t find proof ..they said it was put on a low loaded ..and we never saw him again .
So how did we find and afford Hetty Hymer you asked ..After a tussle with the insurance people we managed to get a pay out but not enough to buy a bigger newer van ” Remortgage the house ” we said and this is what we did …
Then off to Edinburgh where John had seen an advert for a private sale
Hetty aged three was ours … Driving back down the M6 and looking at the interior I saying to each other ” Isn’t it big ” looked so much bigger than our Bertie..A very exciting day
Since then we have travelled every weekend to sailing events ..Weekends in U.K. when not sailing ..Six months on the Isle of Man where J lived in Hetty as his contract didn’t include hotels ..18 months in Ireland when J worked in Cork travelling the length and breadth of the Emerald Isle ..I flew over at weekends instead of the company flying John back home ..what a bonus …3 years in Northumberland ..I commuted after work by train ..what a treat to adventure there ..we loved it ..lastly before retirement 6 months on the Norfolk/ Suffolk border living in a field in Constable country side ..J was working in Colchester..As you can see a camper van isn’t just for pleasure Our Hetty has been a workhorse ..A hotel on wheels ..A country cottage by the sea ..
Retirement came early for John as I am 7 years older ..His idea was if he waited till retirement age I would be 72 and old .. laughs ..I packed up work at 66 and J a year later at 60 and then the big adventures started ..The idea was just to pack up and go ..small trips ..a month or perhaps two ..Naaa… lets spin it out and have 90 days ..This is the allotted time the house insurance and the health insurance would allow ..since then we’ve found out you can have more time away at a price ..
4. Tell us about your current motorhome like make, model, name, age and why you chose it?
Harry Hymer a 644 3berth but easily disguised as a two berth as we don’t want to encourage over night visitor ..Well perhaps our little granddaughter this next summer in Abersoch
5. Where is the best place you have ever been and why?
A difficult question ..
SICILY.. About four weeks in total spent travelling inland ..over hills ..on some roads unfit for traffic ..Wonderful beaches ..Cathedrals ..little harbours for wild camping ..
Lovely restaurants ..One in Memezamami which we promised our selves a lunch there when we saw it on our first time in Sicily but then we were on an economy trip and couldn’t justified the cost ..This time we threw caution to the wind and had what was probably the best pasta dish in Italy
ITALY …Tuscany is a favourite ..places like San Gimiginano ..Volterre and Fattoria la Vialla a farm / restaurant in the Tuscan hills ..first heard of when our family gave us a present of their produce which included a book and an invitation to lunch when in the area ..Well that’s like a red rag to a bull ..and in May 2016 we booked ..Over nighting for Hetty and the most wonderful lunch .. see our blog of this place..
6.Where is the worst place you have ever been and why?
A campsite on the west coast of Italy called “Free Beach” excuse me but where was the beach …. 1 miles hike what a cheek .. refugee camp standard with fire hazards .. Not nice ..we didn’t even last a day and off we went back to wild camping ..Lidl car park was preferable ..
7. Do you have a Bucket List? If so where are the 3 top places on it?
Outer Hebrides is still on the Bucket list as are Shetland and The Orkneys…ALL DONE NOW Perhaps a wander through Portugal DONE ..Now the road to Morocco ..
8. What 3 things (apart from the essentials – food/water etc) do you always travel with?
Two loo …that’s our Harry …2 cassettes to give is longer without hitting campsites
Small bottles ..you ask why ? .. I hate aired white wine ..the fridge is always too full for wine bottles ..so decant wine from brick( cardboard packeted wine ..bought for €1 … into three one person empty wine bottles found on planes .. or in Tesco’s and place in freezer compartment …just fits three ..
A massive box of all my herbs n spices for cooking as we don’t eat out and need to have the same class of culinary delights we have at home ..
9. If you could share one handy motorhome hint or tip, what would it be?
Yup … always wear black ..doesn’t show dirt ..and when cooking or eating ( tendencies to spill) wear clothes inside out ..Spill can be picked off and clothes will go another day turned the right side out
10. Any finally, whats your funniest motorhome moment?
Laughing at the thought …
Arriving off the Sicily / Malta ferry in Valletta we were pulled over by the animal welfare people ..wanting to look at our pet passport for the dog !!!! A stuffed Sheepdog we keep on the dash as a guard dog
Thanks to Susan (and John for putting up with her, lol) for her interview and here’s hoping a speedy return to travels in Harry
POSTPONEMENT !!!
Whilst you wait for our next adventure …..here is something we made from last years travels .. A little jigsaw of Harry Hymer and The Driver for you delectation ..
https://www.jigsawplanet.com/?rc=play&pid=256399155a40
Oh yes we have a story .. whilst watching for the start of The Route de Rhum and particularly Pip Ohare who we followed in the round the world race with all the trauma of a single handed voyage
https://www.yachtingworld.com/races/how-to-follow-the-route-du-rhum-2022-141255
Route de Rhum is a transatlantic yacht race from St Malo to Guadeloupe.. News arrive of it being postponed.. Why you ask ..9m waves and gusting 50/60 knots of wind .. guess what .. Our chosen ferry would be in that weather pattern on Monday 07/11/22.Thankfully our ferry ticket is flexi .. yes more expensive but .. 9am Sunday morning we phoned Brittany ferry.. This was after trying to alter booking on the web site without any luck .. Lack of place for Harry’s height on Wednesday crossing but yes Sir we have a place for you next Monday .. What an efficient man who changed our booking .. sadly didn’t get his name so couldn’t send rave reviews of his handling of our booking ..and that’s it another week to pack and the off will be Sunday week .
SOON…. VERY SOON !
BEST BITS AND COSTS
COSTS .. 12 weeks worth which calculates at €40 per day ..
SPAIN 2021/2022. Map of Spain’s sleep spots upgraded adding latest ones.. GOOGLE MAP
What a brilliant 12 weeks ..11 of which was wall to wall sunshine .. Biggest cost was the ferry but how much ..in time .. fuel and tiredness would it have been? ..We enjoyed the relax on the way to Spain .. All the food .. breakfasts and supper was included and we upgraded to the Club lounge on our return journey for the continuous buffèt enjoyed by The Driver ..
All sleepy spots were good but this is one of the best .. On top of a hill with our own castle ..
The abundance of sea food so readily available by the scoop full at Lidl ..The Cook perfected a Paella with the help and tips from Gabby our wandering motor home fixer ..
Off grid beaches .. meeting amazing ppl John n Wendy .. The Dunns ..The Hippos .. Joyous Joy .. Gabby .. and the Mimosa beach gang in their fabulous vehicle..
Not forgetting stunning sunsets nearly every evening..
THE END !!!
That’s it !!! Weather so awful back “Up Nowf” The spring bulb have to wear their “Big coat “ to come out at the moment ..Arrived back with our LFT waiting for us .. All clear 👍 BTW anyone doing the locator form for returning to UK make time to fill in .. took us an hour .. very annoying as it kept kicking me out !! How very dare it 😎🤪😱
A slow enjoyable wander North .. Spain that is .. Arriving in Santander for a bit of prom parking on Tuesday for our ferry to UK on Wednesday.. and the sun shone
Loading went well ..but on entering our inside cabin .. what a shock to see an open sunny window with balcony .. It’s a backlit picture .. The Cook didn’t like it …
We opted for the Club class lounge as it had free food all day only we didn’t realise one got small plates of full English breakfast and treated ourselves to the paid breakfast in the restaurant.. The Driver being a Yorkshire man has just about got over it but he did enjoy the cakes at afternoon tea time
After the off loading we stayed overnight at Port Solent Portsmouth car park .. perfectly adequate for us .. With zero problems with Border agency or Customs ..
A very windy drive north with hints of sun now we have to try to keep our smiling faces on .. wear socks vests and Big coats ..
I will add the GPS coordinates and the stats / cost as soon as all the washing has been done ..On the 4 th load now ..That’s it for a while but we will be back 😎🤪😱
A FAILURE AND IMPROVEMENTS !
Let’s start with our sleep spot .. Not pretty but very service friendly and free with diesel bought from fuel station across the road €1-46 per lt .. yes expensive but we added €30 worth and worked out the difference was €3 which was 2 nights stay ..
THE FAILURE ..The leccy bought at €4 for 12 hours .. ok you say what’s the problem ? The slow cooked Pork apples and stuffing casserole.. prepared and switched to cook on low .. an hour later no smell of cooking .. The Cook had forgotten to put the switch down on the plug .. Now 7pm and this delicious dish needs at least 6 hours ..The Cook reads in bed till 1am awaiting an alarm to turn off said slow cooker .. unbeknown to her the Bl***y leccy had turned itself off at 8pm .. Sighs ..Now what to do with uncooked pork .. go to sleep till morning .. A Thought !!! What about plugging in to the inverter! The Driver concurs with The Cook and the dinner is cooking slowly as we drive to Santander ..The smell is wonderful .. A few roast potatoes and frozen peas which incidentally have been in the freezer for weeks .. we seem to have been Veg Deniers of late…must get back in the swing soon .. More Veg Vicar ? THE PHOTOS OF IMPROVEMENTS below ! New shoe storage
Photo above new windscreen washer pipe in black.. old in white Photo below of The Slow Cooker in situ locker next to inverter .. what looks like chaos isn’t .. it packing to stop Pork casserole from tipping over ..
THE IMPROVEMENTS. A walk he said ..China Hyper ! The Cook is bewildered by this emporium.. fabulous tat .. The Driver purchased a shoe holder for his back passage .. A tubing to fix the windscreen washers who’s perished and broke in the frost ..2 Sieves ..and a Spanish fan ..The walk back was via Palencia city centre.. A modern hud of cafe society and fur coated matriarchs .. As per usual we missed the opening time for the cathedral but sat a while in the square in the sunshine .. Back at the campsite The Driver got his handyman hat on .. Made a shoe store .. which emptied the locker with the inverter in it allowing the slow cooker to slow cook .. which then will be used for the booze plundered from Lidl to bring home See photo collage ( a new hobby for the Cook to play around with) of Palencia
Below are the GPS coordinates for the parking which going to and from Santander ferry is just perfect
After a booze shop and cheap diesel are now in Santander .. on the shore over night parking see GPS coordinates below .. ferry tomorrow evening and back to good old UK..
A VERY RUDE AWAKENING
Sleepy spot Castillo de Peñaranda de Duero (41.690891, -3.480924) not in search4sites or any other app .. it’s ours and you may try it but do not tell any one or it may get height barriers
Dozing … 7am .. and BANG .. then water running ..The Cook nudged The Driver .. Some thing is wrong .. He dived ( never seen him move so fast ) out of bed to stand on a carpet wet with hot water.. His explanation as he fixed it at -6C was … The drain valve leaked and froze on the outer drain pipe and blew the pipe off the valve as pressure had built up.. seems to be fixed perhaps it happened on the road from hell when a few things where rattled off as the road was so bad .. a pole with a useless basket on it ..which doubles as The Drivers lap dancing pole ..holding Tomatoes Apples and Bananas crashed to the floor ..out of its housing ..tomatoes to be collected from various corners of Harry’s interior.. later .. it’s amazing where cherry tomatoes end up …Carpet mopped with bath towels and all seems well ..Phew
We are on top of a hill by the Castillo de Peñaranda de Duero.. A sleepy spot identified 8 years ago after a visit to this pretty off piste village ..with Hetty Hymer Now Harry Hymer has had a night in Hettys special place
Off on another of The Drivers challenging “Strolls” nothing is a stroll ..a scramble down .. not bad but The Cook knew the climb back would be hard…
A wander round this pretty village which was in a serious state of disrepair .. now money seems to have been thrown at it and all the falling down buildings have been repaired and looking fabulous .. see photos
A “Stroll” back up the hill .. bloody hell The Cook shouted half way up ..as she gasped for air .. note .. she can still shout ..She says it the very last time she walking any where with The Driver until she shifts at least two stone in weight and has joined the gym again ..sitting in the sun for three month hasn’t done her any good ..sniggers
Now where ..LERMA bullring parking (42.024635 -3.752962)
Burgos perhaps … No let’s go back lovely Lerma again found 8 years ago on our post retirement adventure .. Found a carpark next to the Bull ring not may I add in search4sites and went for .. yes .. a stroll.. The Cook would love to stay in the Hotel in the photo below .. It’s a Parador .. The state run hotel chain usually in Monasteries Castle and Palaces housing Spain’s paintings antiques and artefacts
Hopefully more tomorrow..
TRAVELS WITH THE BIG H ..HARRY HYMER 